AutoHDR
Common issues and how to fix them — organized by category. Click any question to expand the answer.
AutoHDR is a web app - it runs in any browser, including on iPhone and Android. There's no dedicated app to download; just open autohdr.com in your phone's browser and log in with your Google account.
You can upload, view, and download shoots from your phone. For large uploads (full RAW shoots), a desktop or laptop is faster and more reliable - but for checking status and downloading finished photos, mobile works fine.
AutoHDR supports JPEG and most major RAW formats including CR2, CR3, ARW, NEF, RAF, DNG, RW2, ORF, PEF, and SRW. Standard image formats like PNG, BMP, GIF, and WEBP also work. HEIC (iPhone) is also supported - JPEG is faster to upload and process, but HEIC works fine.
JPEG is recommended - the AI produces the same quality results from JPEG as RAW, and JPEG files upload and process significantly faster. If you're on a newer camera with a RAW format that isn't processing correctly, convert to JPEG and re-upload.
Two ways to control it:
Per shoot - when starting a new upload, there's a Sky Replacement toggle in the upload options. Turn it off for that shoot only.
Globally - go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings and toggle Sky Replacement off. This disables it for all future uploads until you turn it back on.
Yes - AutoHDR processes single-exposure photos as well as bracketed sets. Single exposures are handled differently from brackets:
Single-exposure photos don't benefit from bracket blending, but the AI still applies corrections, sky replacement, and any add-ons you have enabled.
Upscale increases your photo's resolution using AI - it adds detail rather than just stretching the image. It costs 1 credit per photo.
To use it: open a photo in your listing gallery and click the Upscale button. The AI generates a higher-resolution version which then appears in your gallery alongside the original edit.
When to use it: if a client needs a very large print, if photos came from a lower-megapixel camera, or if you uploaded downscaled files. For most standard real estate use (MLS, web), upscaling isn't necessary.
When upgrading or signing up for a plan at autohdr.com/pricing, there's a field to enter a referral or discount code at checkout. Enter your code there before confirming the purchase.
Discount codes typically apply to new plan purchases or upgrades, not to your current active subscription. The most direct way to check if your code is valid is to attempt applying it at checkout - if it's accepted, you'll see the discount before confirming.
AutoHDR doesn't currently have a way to download your original input brackets from your account - only the edited output is downloadable from the listing gallery. The "Original" toggle you might see in the editor refers to the photo before post-processing tools (like fire or twilight) were applied - it's not the pre-AutoHDR input bracket.
Going forward, the safest move is to keep local copies of your raw bracket files on your own drive before uploading. If you've already uploaded and need an original input bracket for a recent shoot, send us your account email and the shoot link - input files are kept on our servers for a limited window after processing, and we may be able to retrieve it.
After 7 days, your listing is archived - that includes both your original input brackets and the edited output photos. The listing is no longer available in your gallery after that point.
What this means practically: download your edited photos within the 7-day window to keep them long-term. AutoHDR is an editing platform, not file storage, so we don't retain shoots indefinitely. Keep local backups of both your originals and your downloaded edits going forward.
Open the photo in your listing gallery and go to the Basic Adjustments tab. Scroll down to the Color section - you'll see colored circles for each color channel (Reds, Greens, Blues, etc.). Click the circle for the color you want to adjust, then use the Hue and Saturation sliders to dial it in.
For greens specifically: click the green circle and lower the saturation or shift the hue to make it less vibrant. Hit Save when done.
Open the photo in your listing gallery and click the Re-paint button (palette icon). A color picker will appear - select the color you want the wall to be. The AI rebuilds the wall in that color and leaves the rest of the photo untouched. Re-paint is free.
Tips for best results:
Brut is a fully custom AI model — trained on a specific photographer's own raw inputs and edited outputs. Instead of applying a generalized style, Brut learns that photographer's exact philosophy: how they blend flash and ambient light, how their aesthetic evolves, and responds to natural language prompts (e.g., "make it golden hour").
It's designed for photographers who've developed a distinctive, evolving style and want to automate it without losing what makes their work unique. The model learns from their dataset, improves over time as their style evolves, and can infer flash-like lighting from ambient-only brackets — no flash required.
Brut is priced higher than standard AutoHDR models to reflect the bespoke training and positioning as a competitive differentiator.
Both are premium AutoHDR models, but they're built for different goals:
In short: Aura is premium AI editing for anyone shooting flambient. Brut is a photographer's personal style engine.
Both are AutoHDR's core editing styles - the difference is in the look they produce:
The best way to decide is to run the same shoot through both and compare. You can change your default in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings. For Aura-specific details, ask about the Aura model.
Your plan renews on the same date each month as your original signup date. Credits are added to your account at the moment of renewal - you'll see them appear in your balance automatically.
You can check your renewal date and upcoming billing at autohdr.com/account → Billing.
Both are account-level toggles in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings:
Both features are baked in during processing, so turning them off affects future uploads only. To remove them from an already-processed shoot, re-upload after toggling off - re-runs are free since you only pay when you download.
Open the listing at autohdr.com/listings, select the photos you want to remove using their checkboxes, then click Delete. This permanently removes them from the listing.
Note: deleting a photo doesn't refund the credit if it was already downloaded. If you haven't downloaded it yet, deleting it before downloading means you won't be charged for it.
Go to autohdr.com/pricing, find the plan you want, and click Upgrade. Upgrades take effect immediately and your billing cycle resets from that date.
If you're switching to a lower plan, the change is scheduled to take effect at the end of your current billing period - you'll keep your current plan and credits until then, and the new plan kicks in on the next cycle. Your existing credit balance carries over either way.
Yes - AutoHDR can accept flash frames alongside your HDR brackets. That said, you don't need to include them. AutoHDR is trained to produce flambient-quality results from 3-bracket HDR alone - most photographers who switch to bracket-only find the results are equal or better, with significantly less shooting and upload time.
If you want to keep shooting flash frames, include them in your upload the same way you would brackets - they'll be accepted as part of your bracket set.
Yes - AutoHDR processes drone and aerial photos. A few things to know:
Team management is in autohdr.com/account → Add Your Team. Add a team member by entering their email address. Note: no invite email is sent to them. Here's how they get set up:
Once connected, they share your credit pool and can upload and download shoots under your account.
Note: team members need a Google account to log in (Gmail or Google Workspace email). Adding team members requires a paid plan - if you're on Free, you'll need to upgrade first.
Open your listing at autohdr.com/listings, click the three-dot button next to Download, and select Share. This generates a shareable link your client or agent can open in any browser - no AutoHDR account needed to view. They can browse the photos and download them directly from the link.
Go to autohdr.com/account → Billing and click Cancel Subscription. Your subscription will remain active until the end of your current billing period - your credits stay available until then and expire when the period ends.
If you'd rather pause than cancel outright, you can downgrade to a lower-tier plan instead - your credits will continue rolling over month to month. See plan options at autohdr.com/pricing.
AutoHDR uses Google Sign-In, so your login needs to be tied to a Google account. That includes @gmail.com and any business email on Google Workspace (so @yourcompany.com works if your company uses Google for email).
If your email isn't under a Google domain, you won't be able to log in with it. Options:
If your account email got changed to something you can't access, send us your original email address (the one you used to sign up) and we'll help recover access.
You can add your company email for notifications without changing your login. Go to autohdr.com/account → Additional Emails, click Add Email, and enter your company address. All comms will go there; your original Google login stays the same.
Note: the login email itself can't be self-serve changed since it's tied to your Google account. If you need to move to a completely different Google account, let us know.
Once the upload progress bar finishes - that's when your photos are safely in our system - you're free to close the browser or navigate away. Editing runs on our servers, not your computer, so nothing gets interrupted from there.
If you close the tab BEFORE the progress bar finishes, any files still uploading will get cut off. Wait for the bar to fully complete before navigating away.
You'll get an email when the shoot is ready, and you can check the status anytime at autohdr.com/listings.
Head to autohdr.com/listings - any shoot that's currently being processed will show up there with a live status bar so you can see exactly what stage it's at. You'll also get an email when it's ready, though that can sometimes land in spam or your promotions folder, so the listings page is always the most reliable place to check.
Most shoots finish in under 30 minutes. If yours is taking longer, check autohdr.com/listings for a live status. The most common causes:
Declutter is a paid add-on tool that uses AI to remove clutter and unwanted objects from your photos. It costs 1 credit per edit.
You can apply Declutter at two points:
Each Declutter edit costs 1 credit regardless of when it's applied.
When you download photos, the name of the zip file that's downloaded for the photo shoot will have the same name as the listing address in AutoHDR. When you download it, it will show up in your downloads, and you can also search your computer for that listing address.
We currently don't have the option to delete project folders. You can request that feature if you'd like at https://autohdr.canny.io/
Approximately 30 seconds.
You can get a 1-week free trial if you go to autohdr.com/free-week
Right now, the one file format you can download from us is JPEG. If you want to request a different format for downloads, feel free to put in a feature request here:
https://autohdr.canny.io/
If you have a referral code, go to autoHDR.com/pricing and select the plan that you want. Once you choose it and go to checkout, you will see the ability to enter in a discount code and to get 25% off your first month.
Currently, we send back photos to you in the same dimensions that you sent them to us. We will provide 300 DPI outputs in a near-term update! (pulled from knowledge base as of August 2025).
We will provide 300 DPI outputs in a near-term update! (pulled from knowledge base as of August 2025).
Hey there! Our backend is currently running just fine.
Double-check your WiFi connection. It is very rare that we would ever have downtime since even when we push updates, the platform stays up and running to continue processing shoots.
What error do you see?
You're seeing a .crdownload file because your browser is still downloading, or the download was interrupted. Chrome uses the .crdownload extension for in-progress downloads — when it finishes, the file automatically becomes a proper .zip.
If it's stuck as .crdownload:
If it keeps failing on a large batch, try downloading in smaller batches.
Twilight photos should only take 30 seconds to process. If it takes any longer, you should retry. If you have any issues, please let me know, and I'll help you successfully complete it.
On most computers, you can convert files right on your desktop by selecting them, right-clicking, and pressing "Convert to JPEG." If that's not an option, you can always use an online tool, or if you're really struggling, we can help you do it on our end.
No, there's not. As of August 2025, we don't have image numbers in the listing gallery so that we do not crowd the user interface. However, when you download them, you'll be able to see all the image names.
We have grass replacement live. If you go to autohdr.com/listings and click on any photo, click the grass icon to start a grass replacement. You can also select multiple images and then hit Bulk Edit to replace the grass on multiple images at once. This will only take 30 seconds or less.
Go to AutoHDR.com/account and in your style settings you can select from different cloud options.
Shoot with an ISO between 200-400 to avoid grainy input images - and as a result - avoid grainy output images!
As of August 2025, you can create or sign into your AutoHDR account with Google. If your business domain was made with Google or you're using Gmail, this will work just fine. Right now, if you're not an email through Google - you will have to make or use one for your autoHDR login.
On most computers, you can select your files, right-click, and there should be an option to convert to JPEG. If not, there are many online conversion tools. If you have trouble, feel free to let me know, and I can do it for you.
In autohdr.com/listings when you're looking through your images, you can click the crop tool. Then you will see an icon with rotating arrows. If you click on that and drag from left to right, you can rotate and straighten out your photo.
Yes, if you select the images and hit delete in the listing gallery, you can delete photos.
As of August 2025, you can't delete listings. If you'd like to make a feature request, feel free to do so here: https://autohdr.canny.io/
The removal tool should just take a few seconds. If it is slow, it could be because you are sending a very large file, and/or because your are sending it on slow wifi - and it's taking your computer/Wi-Fi a long time to download new, large file.
Yeah, if you see the loading animation, that means the Twilight is being processed and should be back to you in 30 seconds or less.
You'll get an email for every completed photo shoot unless:
All of your listings will be in autohdr.com/listings, and you can go and download them there anytime.
If you don't see them, you might just be logged in to the wrong account.
Yes, we will always replace the sky by default. Whether your input photos have an overcast sky, it's raining, there are clouds, or it's already blue, we will always replace it with a perfect blue sky and add nice clouds. You can always toggle off the clouds if you just want a blue sky, and you can always change the clouds that we add in your style settings at autohdr.com/account.
If you're interested in joining our team, record a 1-minute video and send it to matt@autohdr.com explaining why you would be the perfect fit for our team. Our core values are:
If you have all three of these and have a unique skill to bring to the team, please email Matt.
We don't have a standalone 100-photo plan, but you can use the slider on our pricing page to find the tier that best fits your volume. Check current plans and pricing at https://autohdr.com/pricing.
If you're interested in interacting with our API, email matt@autohdr.com and explain what you want to use it for. Then we can get you an API key and documentation if approved.
It is delivery@autohdr.com. Please let us know what we can help with! You can also get direct help with a member of our team in this chat.
Fix requests sent to delivery@autohdr.com are typically turned around in 30–120 minutes. You'll get an email as soon as your corrected photos are ready. If you're on a tight deadline, just mention it in your email and we'll do our best to prioritize it.
It sounds like you're having an issue with a color cast or white balance that wasn't corrected. We recommend shooting auto white balance. The model will do as best as possible to remove color cast without adjusting the paint color. Feel free to use the white balance slider in the listing gallery to adjust it.
Yes, by default we will make grass slightly greener and improve the vibrancy of your photos. You can also do a full lawn replacement or insertion by clicking the photo and clicking the green grass button. If you want to do it on multiple photos at once, you can select all of the images, then click Bulk Edit, and finally click Grass Replacement.
If you want to modify the sky that's used in your photos, go to autohdr.com/account and select the sky style that you want.
AutoHDRizz
We ask you for your business information so that we can reach out to you and make sure that you're having a good experience using the software - since we want every user to get the full benefit of speed, cost savings, and automation at their business.
If we know the volume you're doing, it will also help us tailor recommendations about our automations and workflows specifically for your business.
Yes, currently the only way to log in is by signing in with a Google account.
If you have friends using the platform, ask them to check their account settings and look for their referral code.
If you're looking for your own coupon that you can share with other people, go to autohdr.com/account and scroll to the section where you can copy your referral code.
No, when you process a Twilight, you do not need to click Save. It will automatically create a new photo, separate from the original.
Yes, we have an awesome affiliate program with awesome benefits! If you're interested in joining, go to AutoHDR.com/income for more details.
AutoHDR has several custom-trained models that were developed in-house and are specific for real estate photography.
I can help you with that. Please tell me what you're not satisfied with!
You can also click the "Regenerate" button when viewing the Twilight photo to generate it in a new intensity or style.
If your staged image is messed up, try clicking the "Regenerate" button to recreate the photo. You can also try different styles with it.
In the top right corner, click your circle profile photo, and then in the drop-down, click "Sign out."
If you're seeing a watermark in your gallery preview view, that's expected on the Free plan. The watermark only appears on the preview view in your listing - the file you actually download is always clean regardless of plan. Download a photo and open it on your computer to confirm.
If your actual downloaded file has a watermark embedded in it, that shouldn't happen on any plan. Downloads are always clean. Let us know your account email and which specific photo has the issue, and we'll look into it.
You can drag and drop photos in your listing gallery to manually reorder them after processing.
AutoHDR also has a Walkthrough Reorder feature that automatically sequences photos by room type (entry → living → kitchen → bedrooms → bathrooms → exterior). To enable or configure it: go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings → Walkthrough Reorder and use the gear icon to set your preferred room order.
Note: photo filenames and ordering from Dropbox integrations follow separate naming rules - walkthrough reorder applies to web UI uploads.
There's no way to select specific photos to process within a single upload - AutoHDR processes everything in the upload as one shoot.
The workaround: upload only the photos you want processed. If you have a full shoot but only want certain photos edited, pull just those files into the upload. You can always create multiple uploads from the same property to handle different subsets separately.
They're built for different jobs:
AI Re-Edit - applies a broad fix to the whole photo based on a text prompt. Use it when something is wrong with the overall image: white balance, exposure, wall color, overall look. The AI regenerates the photo with your instruction applied. 1 credit per use.
AutoFill - lets you paint over a specific area and add something new via a text prompt. Use it when you want to add or replace a specific object or surface: a TV screen, a lamp, a floor texture, fire in a fireplace. Completely free, no credits.
AutoRemove - the opposite of AutoFill. Paint over something to remove it. Also free.
Rule of thumb: whole photo issue → AI Re-Edit. Specific area → AutoFill or AutoRemove.
The Pin Tool lets you place a marker pin on a photo - most commonly used on drone or aerial shots to highlight a specific property, lot, or feature you want to call attention to.
To use it: open a photo in your listing gallery → Basic Adjustments → Pin Tool. Click the pin icon, hover over the area you want to mark, and click to place the pin. You can resize it by pinching in or out on a trackpad. To move the pin: click and drag it to a new location. To remove it: click the pin again and delete.
Two ways depending on what kind of feedback:
For quality issues on a specific shoot - try AI Re-Edit first on the affected photos (1 credit per use). The regenerate loop icon and AutoFill are also worth trying for specific fixes. If something genuinely processed wrong (not a result you didn't like, but an actual error on our end - e.g., failed processing, distortion from a missing lens profile, sky replacement misidentifying a real element), reply with the shoot link and specifics so the team can check what happened.
For product feedback or feature requests - submit at autohdr.canny.io. The product team reviews submissions there regularly and uses them to prioritize what gets built next.
Yes absolutely! When you're on the photo, just use the left or right arrow key to scroll between images. If there's a delay in scrolling, it just means the images are taking a little while to load.
The 'Lisa' model gives extra 'pop' and deeper window pulls for a unique style that stands out! To view samples, go to knowledge.autohdr.com
Yes, absolutely! You can check out sample images from our different model options at knowledge.autohdr.com.
Yes, go to knowledge.AutoHDR.com to check out some samples!
You can see our latest updates at https://autohdr.canny.io/
You can also request features and give feedback there.
We currently have three sky styles for our virtual twilights which are available to preview when you click the twilight button. You can also generate them in three different levels of intensity.
AI Grass replacements will take 30 seconds or less.
We have lots of resources on how to get the best results and use the automations in Auto HDR. Check them out at knowledge.autohdr.com and watch our YouTube videos at https://www.youtube.com/@AutoHDR
As of August 2025, we're not providing 300 DPI on the outputs, but we're planning to add it in a near-term update!
All of your profile settings are located at AutoHDR.com/account. To access this, click the circle containing your profile photo in the top right corner, then in the drop down click "account".
We can't fix a photo that was out of focus in the original — our AI works with what it's given, so a blurry input will produce a blurry output.
If a photo came back blurry or distorted and you believe that's an AI processing issue (not a camera focus issue), let us know. Our team can review it and help if it's something on our end.
Yes, you can just like on the website. You can select the images and download them to your iPhone.
Since you're signed in with Google, the photo for your account profile that you see in the top right corner will just be whatever the image is for your Google profile. If you want to modify that, go to your Google account settings and add a new photo.
All of our pricing is in U.S. dollars. There are no modifications for other geographies.
As of August 2025, we have an AutoFill tool and an AutoRemove tool that can be used to mask regions of the image and remove or add items. However, we currently don't have a brush like in Photoshop where you can brush parts of the image and make adjustments in lightness or contrast or color, etc.
In autohdr.com/account, you can manipulate your preferences for:
You can even change your contrast preference on an interior or exterior basis only if you'd like.
Absolutely. If you'd like to view the privacy policy in terms of agreement, it is all on knowledge.autohdr.com
If you want to blur a license plate or portrait, you can:
This will blur just that region.
If you specifically want a blur tool, feel free to add it as a feature request here:
https://autohdr.canny.io/
As of August 2025, we don't have the option to decrease file sizes when downloading. If that's something you'd want, please add it to our feature request board:
https://autohdr.canny.io/
Separately, there are many online tools you can use to decrease the size of your images in bulk!
We love feedback! If you run into an error, you can send the photos here with your comments. You can also use the flag button when viewing your images, and send a message with feedback directly to our development team.
If you want to turn off clouds before the entire photo shoot is processed, you can go to autohdr.com/account or access it by clicking your profile photo in the top right corner and in the drop-down, click Account. Then you can toggle off cloud generation for exterior skies, interior skies, or both! This will apply to all photo shoots that are processed going forward.
As of August 2025, we do not have a Google Drive integration but plan on developing it in the near term!
Currently, we do not support exporting files in .tiff format. However, if you have specific needs, feel free to let us know at https://autohdr.canny.io
No - you do not need to use an ND filter when shooting aerials. The AI will balance out the over and under-exposed regions for you.
We currently have a white balance slider that allows you to increase warm or cool tones. If you want to request a new slider, please let us know at https://autohdr.canny.io
Hey, I appreciate you reaching out! We'd love to chat with you about the options here. Please book a time with our sales team here to speak as soon as possible: https://meetings-na2.hubspot.com/matt-gia/book-a-demo - Otherwise, you can go to our home page, click Contact, and reach out to the sales email for an email reply. We'll talk to you soon!
We can accept any number of brackets. That could be one bracket, two brackets, three brackets, or as many as you want, even up to ten. We use a vision-based grouping algorithm to identify which ones are from the same angle and then merge them all together. We found that there are diminishing returns in the quality after three brackets, so it's definitely not necessary for convenience for you. We recommend using three so that you have faster time on site as well as uploading. Just make sure you have at least two stops between each bracket, otherwise known as plus or minus two EV.
Hey, if you go to AutoHDR.com/account and go into your style settings, you can manipulate the naming convention of your shoots as well as the automated walkthrough reordering feature.
The naming convention change will keep your images in order but rename them for any uploads that are done through the web UI based on your preference. You could add things such as your business name, or make it automatically pull the photo shoot name and then add the numbers after. Walkthrough reorder will tag images based on what type of room they are and reorder them in the desired order that you've set out in your settings with the gear icon.
Specifically, as of April 2026, the custom file names only apply to uploads that are done in the web UI directly on AutoHDR.com. They do not apply or sync within integrations; however, we do plan to add that.
If you open your shoot and go to the basic adjustments panel, you can manipulate shadows, highlights, exposure, and anything else extremely granularly and even apply those settings in bulk to make these adjustments.
Yes - AutoHDR processes both portrait (vertical) and landscape (horizontal) shots without any issue. Whichever orientation you shoot in is preserved in the output. Just upload as you normally would.
Downloaded photos do not have a watermark. The watermark you see in the gallery preview is only there to protect the edited version until you download - it does not appear on the files you actually receive.
AutoHDR delivers photos back in the same dimensions and aspect ratio as your original uploads - we don't crop or resize to a specific ratio during standard processing.
To get 16:9 output: use the Crop tool in your listing gallery to manually crop any photo to the ratio you need before downloading. The cropped version is what you'll receive when you download that image.
If you need 16:9 versions for a full shoot, you'd need to crop each photo individually in the gallery - there's no batch crop-to-ratio feature currently. You can request that feature at autohdr.canny.io if it would be useful for your workflow.
AutoHDR takes data privacy seriously. Photos you upload are stored on secure servers and used for processing your edits, service operations, and platform improvement - including model development and AI training, per the license you grant by uploading. Edited images are available for download for up to 7 days; some copies or derivatives may be retained for operational purposes per our policy.
Full data usage, retention, and licensing details are in our privacy policy at knowledge.autohdr.com/privacy-policy.
Your affiliate dashboard is at autohdr.com/income - log in with your AutoHDR account and you'll see your unique referral link, commission tracking, and payout details.
If you haven't signed up for the affiliate program yet, go to autohdr.com/account and scroll down to the Join Our Affiliate Program section. Enroll there and your dashboard will be active at autohdr.com/income going forward.
You do. Per our privacy policy, you retain all right, title, and interest in your photos and edits - AutoHDR doesn't claim ownership. You can use, sell, license, or distribute them however you'd like, including to clients, brokers, and MLS platforms.
By uploading, you do grant AutoHDR a license to use your images for processing, service operations, model development, and AI training. The full terms are at knowledge.autohdr.com/privacy-policy. Ownership stays with you; we just have permission to use the images for running and improving the platform.
AutoHDR doesn't claim ownership of your photos - you retain full rights to use, sell, and license them yourself.
What you do grant us by uploading is a license to use your images for operating and developing the platform, including processing, model development, and AI training. The full license terms are at knowledge.autohdr.com/privacy-policy. This license doesn't transfer ownership or restrict what you can do with your photos commercially.
Yes. Our privacy policy explicitly states that nothing restricts your ability to sell, license, sublicense, distribute, or commercially exploit your photos - including providing them to clients, brokers, MLS platforms, and other third parties. Your agent clients can use them for listings, print, social media, or any other commercial purpose as part of their business.
Whatever agreement you have with your client governs how they use the photos; AutoHDR isn't in that loop.
Per our privacy policy, your ability to sell, license, or distribute your photos isn't restricted - that includes stock photography platforms.
That said, stock platforms have their own requirements separate from AutoHDR - property releases for recognizable buildings, AI-edited content disclosure rules, model releases when people are visible, etc. Those are between you and the platform you submit to.
Full rights and licensing details are at knowledge.autohdr.com/privacy-policy.
Yes - AutoHDR has a Human-in-the-Loop feature that lets you bring your own editor in at no extra cost.
Here's how it works: once your shoot is processed, you can flag any photo for human review. AutoHDR sends those photos to your editor, who can download the RAW, make their edits, and drop the replacement image into an upload box - it then automatically swaps into your gallery in place of the AI-edited version. Everything stays in one place; your client sees the final gallery without knowing which photos were AI-edited vs. human-edited.
To set it up: go to autohdr.com/account and add your editor under the Team section.
Yes - AutoHDR supports team-based workflows. You can add photographers, QC reviewers, and virtual assistants to your account. There is no limit on how many team members you can add.
To set it up:
Once connected, their uploads appear in your account for review. QC team members can review, tweak, download, and deliver images - all from your shared account. Credits come from the account owner's pool.
The fastest way to report a bug or broken behavior is the flag button in the app - it's a floating button with a flag icon (top-right on desktop, bottom-right on mobile). Click it, write what's happening, and your feedback goes directly to our development team in Slack so they see it in real-time.
You can also reach us by email at delivery@autohdr.com or via chat on autohdr.com - both are available 24/7. Including the shoot link or a screenshot makes investigation much faster.
Yes - submit and vote on feature requests at autohdr.canny.io. You can:
The product team reviews submissions there regularly and uses them to decide what gets built next, so voting and posting genuinely shape the roadmap.
The best place to see what's recently been built and what's in progress is autohdr.canny.io - feature requests have status updates there, and you can see what's queued, in development, or shipped.
For bug reports submitted through the flag button or email, we don't currently send individual status updates back, but our team triages quickly. If a specific issue you reported is still affecting you and you want a status check, send a follow-up at delivery@autohdr.com referencing your original report.
Yes - there are several options for white-labeled uploads for your photographers, such as our Dropbox automation or through our integrations with platforms like HD Photo Hub and Spiro. If you're an Enterprise client, we can also create a white-labeled upload page for you. Email us at delivery@autohdr.com and let us know if you're interested.
Yes, we can merge accounts for you. Contact support with the email addresses for both accounts and let us know which one you'd like to keep as the primary. Our team will consolidate them so your history and credits are under one login.
Enterprise plans (5,000+ photos/month) include a dedicated Slack channel with our team. If you're interested or want to confirm whether your plan qualifies, reach out at eric@autohdr.com.
To request API access, email matt@autohdr.com. Let us know what you want to use it for and we'll get you set up with a key and documentation.
Yes. To connect with our sales team, book a free demo at https://meetings-na2.hubspot.com/matt-gia/book-a-demo or reach out at eric@autohdr.com with your name, business, and what you're looking to solve.
The Top Up button is available on all plans, including the free plan. If it isn't responding, try refreshing the page or using a different browser. If the issue persists, contact us at delivery@autohdr.com and include a screenshot of what you're seeing — we'll get it sorted.
Yes, we can do demos with international phone numbers. Book directly at https://meetings-na2.hubspot.com/matt-gia/book-a-demo and include your preferred contact number in the booking notes.
Large shoots can time out on slow or unstable connections. Try these steps:
If the download consistently fails after trying the above, email delivery@autohdr.com with your shoot link and we'll investigate.
Click the crop button at the bottom of the listing gallery. You'll see a rotation tool — drag it left or right to straighten the photo.
Per-photo rates vary by plan tier and whether you're on a monthly or annual plan. For current rates including the lowest available price, see autohdr.com/pricing — rates are updated there whenever they change.
If the free trial isn't loading or activating, try these steps:
If none of those resolve it, email delivery@autohdr.com with the error you're seeing and we'll get it sorted.
Try the Regenerate button — you can create as many new versions as you want until you get a result you're happy with.
If regenerating doesn't resolve the issue, use the AI Re-Edit tool and describe specifically what you'd like changed (e.g., "darker sky," "warmer light tone," "less intense sunset").
Go to autohdr.com/account and scroll to the Team section. Add your team member's email address — no invite email is sent to them. They'll need to create a free-tier AutoHDR account using that same email, then go to Account → scroll to the bottom → Company Information card → click Team account (instead of Personal). Once they do that, they'll have access to all shared listings and credits. You can also update your primary account email in the same section.
AutoHDR returns your files in the exact same order they were uploaded — 100% guaranteed. If the order looks different when you open them in Lightroom, Finder, or your SD card browser, it's a sort order setting in that application, not a change we made.
In the AutoHDR web app your photos will always appear in the exact upload order.
The AutoHDR affiliate program lets you earn recurring commissions by referring other real estate media professionals to AutoHDR. As an affiliate you earn 10% recurring commission on every referral, can earn up to 50% off your own subscription, get access to paid content challenges with cash prizes, and qualify for V4 beta access. To learn more and get started, book an onboarding call: https://calendly.com/tyler-autohdr/new-meeting
Sign up at https://autohdr.com/income. Once you've signed up and posted at least one short-form video featuring AutoHDR, you're an active affiliate. For a full walkthrough, book an onboarding call: https://calendly.com/tyler-autohdr/new-meeting
You earn 10% recurring commission on every customer you refer — as long as they stay subscribed, you keep earning. Top monthly earners bring in $1,000+. You can also earn additional income through paid content challenges inside the WhatsApp community.
Yes — active affiliates can earn up to 50% off their own AutoHDR subscription through commissions and program benefits. Book an onboarding call to see what you'd qualify for: https://calendly.com/tyler-autohdr/new-meeting
V4 is AutoHDR's next-generation editing engine, currently in beta. Access is available to Enterprise plan users and active affiliates (signed up at autohdr.com/income and posted at least one short-form video featuring AutoHDR). If you qualify, contact support and we'll grant access immediately.
It's a private community for AutoHDR users. Inside you'll find:
You can join directly using this link: https://chat.whatsapp.com/LnzXeNX1PQBAlul1MoStrO — once you're in the Announcements group, you'll have access to all five groups inside the community. Or just let us know what phone number to use and we'll add you manually.
Every Friday at 10:00 AM CST, our CEO Matt hosts a live session where he helps you install AI tools directly into Slack — no technical setup required. Each week features a brand new skill built specifically for real estate media businesses (past examples include a knowledge base builder and a Zillow/Realtor.com listing scraper that auto-edits photos and drafts outreach emails). Sign up here: https://luma.com/8znsc1hi
The AutoHDR Agent is a self-serve AI tool you can build and fully customize for your own real estate photography business — things like automations, workflows, and AI skills specific to your operations.
This is a community-driven tool, not something supported through customer support. The best place to get help, ask questions, and see what others are building is our community WhatsApp chat:
https://chat.whatsapp.com/FXNFKqUpSJvJoGQL0a4R5s?mode=gi_t
Inside the group you'll find community members who are actively building their own automations and skills, plus a developer available to answer technical questions. Jump in, share what you're working on, and learn from others doing the same.
This is a rare side effect of our automatic perspective correction. AutoHDR straightens vertical lines and corrects lens distortion on every image — occasionally, this process can introduce a slight tilt in photos where the correction doesn't have a perfect reference point (wide angles, rooms with limited straight lines, etc.).
The quick fix is the Crop & Tilt tool, found in Basic Adjustments on the image editor. You can use it to straighten the photo to your liking — it only takes a few seconds per image.
If a large number of images in a shoot came back tilted, let us know and we can flag it for a re-edit.
Yes - and this is actually one of our top recommendations. Shooting JPEG gives you the same quality output as RAW for the AI editing itself, and here's why: our AI model was trained specifically on JPEG inputs, so there's no quality difference in the final edit.
What JPEG does give you: smaller file sizes, faster uploads, faster processing, and less storage used on your end.
One small caveat for wide-angle shooters: AutoHDR applies lens distortion correction automatically to RAW uploads, but not to JPEGs. So if you shoot JPEG, make sure your camera's in-body lens correction is on, or that "Apply Lens Profile" is enabled in your Lightroom / Capture One export preset. Most modern cameras default this on, but worth confirming on wide lenses where the difference is most visible.
The reasons to shoot RAW are if you want AutoHDR to handle lens correction for you automatically, or if you're doing your own post-processing on the originals outside of AutoHDR. For most real-estate workflows - JPEG all the way.
Yes - go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings, and under Indoor/Outdoor model, you can pick:
Whichever you pick applies to all future shoots automatically.
If you want to change the look of a past shoot, re-upload it after switching the model - re-runs are free since you only pay for what you download.
One more thing: window pull quality is also limited by what your input brackets capture. If you want strong window pulls, make sure you're shooting at least 3 brackets at ±2 EV - that gives the AI enough dynamic range to work with.
The grass replacement effect is intentionally vibrant by default. There's no per-account intensity control today - so the honest answer is that what you're asking for (keep grass replacement on, but make it less saturated globally) isn't something you can self-serve right now. Here's what's available:
For specific shoots where it's bothering you most: open the photo and click AI Re-Edit. Type something like "make the grass look more natural and less saturated" or "tone down the green in the grass." AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit per use. The regenerate loop icon may give a slightly different result, worth a try.
For the systemic fix: if you're seeing this across most of your shoots, send us a few sample photos showing the issue. This is exactly the kind of consistent feedback that drives product changes - a natural/vibrant grass setting in your account is the kind of control we'd want to add for cases like yours, and concrete examples help us prioritize it.
Here's what gives the AI the best possible material to work with:
Format: JPEG is recommended. We've trained the AI specifically on JPEG inputs - same quality as RAW, but faster uploads and faster edits.
Brackets: 3 brackets at ±2 EV is the sweet spot. In very bright/contrasty conditions, you can shoot 5 to widen your exposure range — all exposures are used for blending; uploading more gives the AI a wider dynamic range to work with.
Bracket order: Mid → Dark → Bright. Many cameras lock auto white balance to the first frame, so leading with the mid exposure gives all three frames a consistent, well-calibrated WB.
White balance: Auto. Avoids baking in a color cast.
ISO: 200-400. Keeps noise low without sacrificing exposure.
Aperture: f/8-f/11 for sharp, consistent depth of field.
Mode: Aperture priority for consistent exposure across the shoot.
Tripod: Recommended. We can align handheld shots, but a tripod eliminates any blur risk between brackets - and any blur in the input bracket will remain in the edit.
Distinct angles: Shoot meaningfully different framings. The AI groups brackets by visual similarity, not timestamp, so near-identical shots (e.g., door-open vs. door-closed) may get merged. Upload them as separate shoots if you want them edited separately.
Color reference: Make sure your true wall/surface colors are clearly visible in at least one bracket - if every frame is blown out or shadowed in the same area, the AI has nothing to anchor color to.
Yes - auto white balance is what we recommend for most shoots. It adapts to the scene's lighting and gives the AI a clean reference to work from when blending your brackets.
One additional tip: shoot your middle exposure first, then the dark and bright. Many cameras lock the white balance to the first frame of an auto-bracket sequence, so leading with the middle (most neutrally exposed) shot typically gives the AI the most accurate color reference for the whole set.
The most common cause of slightly-off wall or fixture colors in our edits is the input bracket set carrying a non-neutral WB. Auto WB + middle-first ordering solves it for the vast majority of shoots.
Actually, AutoHDR uses every single exposure you upload — all of them go into the blend. The portal shows 3 reference thumbnails in your listing view, but that's just a UI display choice and has nothing to do with how many frames were used in the edit. More brackets = more dynamic range for the AI to work with, so a 5-bracket set can improve results in high-contrast scenes like bright sunny days or rooms with strong window light.
If a specific photo looks off, the most likely cause is exposure range rather than bracket count. Make sure your darkest bracket is dark enough to clearly see outside the windows, and your brightest captures interior shadow detail.
For most shoots, 3 brackets at ±2 EV is all you need - that gives the AI a dark enough exposure to pull in the window views and a bright enough one to recover the shadows, which covers the vast majority of interior and exterior shots.
5 brackets is worth considering if you're shooting in a very bright or sunny market (think Florida, California, desert climates) where 3 brackets sometimes still isn't dark enough to see clearly out of the windows. The extra exposures give the AI more data to work with in high-contrast situations.
When in doubt, start with 3. If your window views aren't coming through the way you want, try 5.
Did you know you have minute control over colors in AutoHDR? You can target any color and increase or reduce the intensity. Check the separate Interior and Exterior settings on your account page: https://www.autohdr.com/account
Here's how you can ensure accurate colors and get the best results from AutoHDR:
https://knowledge.autohdr.com/How-to-get-best-results-with-AutoHDR-1bbc9edfcf1c802992b0c9d0fd8bfce3
Recommended EV settings:
You can also use AI Re-Paint (free tool) — it lets you eyedrop and match colors precisely to what you need.
Additionally:
For future shoots: unusual wall colors (very dark, very saturated) can confuse the AI. Shooting auto white balance and bracketing mid → dark → bright helps it lock onto the true color reference.
The fastest self-serve path: use AI Re-Edit on that photo. Open it in your listing gallery, click AI Re-Edit, and describe what looks wrong - e.g. "the wall color is off" or "the window view looks washed out." The AI fixes that one photo and leaves the rest of the shoot alone. AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit per use.
If it's a color issue specifically, the White Balance slider in the listing gallery is also worth trying first - free, instant, and often solves exterior/interior tint issues without spending a re-edit credit.
A few options depending on how many photos are affected:
If it's just a few photos with a sky that didn't come out right, use AI Re-Edit. Open the photo in your listing gallery, click AI Re-Edit, and describe the sky you want - something like "replace the sky with a softer blue and fewer clouds" or "give this a dramatic sunset sky." AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit per use, and you can use the regenerate loop icon on an existing edit to iterate.
If the sky issue is across most of the shoot, send me the listing name and we'll have our team adjust them directly so you're not burning through credits one photo at a time.
Per-photo, you can also use the Cloud button in your gallery to toggle clouds on/off if your issue is just the cloud presence. Free.
For future shoots, you can change the default cloud style (Fluffy / Whispy / Fluffy+Whispy) at autohdr.com/account → Style Settings.
If the sky in your window came back grey, it's because sky replacement was off for that shoot (either globally, or specifically for interior windows - those are separate toggles). The good news is it's an easy fix.
Two ways to fix it:
Going forward, you can lock this in by default - head to autohdr.com/account and make sure Sky Replacement is enabled in your Style Settings.
The AI is trained to neutralize unusual color casts - a pink-tinted bathroom usually means a lighting artifact rather than a pink fixture. It's a hard call and it doesn't always get it right.
Two ways to fix it:
That's Sky Replacement interpreting distant mountains as sky and replacing them - this happens on aerials where mountain tones blend with the sky.
Fix for the current shoot: go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings, toggle Sky Replacement off, then re-upload. Re-runs are free since you only pay when you download - the reprocessed shoot will have the real mountains intact.
Going forward: you can also deselect Sky Replacement when uploading aerial shoots specifically, and leave it on for everything else. Or keep it off globally if you mostly shoot aerials.
Two things to address:
Roof cut off - this is perspective correction cropping the image when it straightens the verticals. Go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings, toggle Perspective Correction off, then re-upload. Re-runs are free - you only pay when you download.
Blurry outdoor furniture - this almost always means the input bracket itself was blurry, or something moved between bracket frames (wind on chairs is common - outdoor furniture can shift slightly across the 1-2 second bracket sequence).
To attempt a fix: open the photo, click AI Re-Edit, and describe what you want - e.g. "regenerate the chairs with sharper, cleaner detail." It often improves the result. AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit per use.
For future shoots: shoot static subjects on still days when possible, or bump your shutter speed up to minimize motion between brackets. Once blur is in the original capture, the AI can only work with what's there.
Fuzziness on a delivered photo is almost always one of two things:
Motion blur between brackets - if something moved slightly (curtains, foliage, furniture from wind), the AI blend can produce a soft or ghosty result. To attempt a fix, use AI Re-Edit on the photo with a prompt like "regenerate this area with sharper, cleaner detail, no ghosting." It often improves the result.
Input bracket was already blurry - if your sharpest bracket had camera shake or focus miss, the AI has nothing sharp to work from. AI Re-Edit can regenerate the area, but it won't recover sharpness that wasn't in the original capture. For future shoots, review brackets before uploading.
The most likely cause is Declutter being on in your Style Settings. Declutter is opt-in and removes items the AI identifies as clutter - but it can be too aggressive on fixtures like lamps.
For the affected shoot: go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings, toggle Declutter off, then re-upload. Re-runs are free since you only pay when you download - the reprocessed shoot will have your lamps and fixtures intact. Disabling Declutter also saves credits going forward (it costs 1 credit per photo when enabled).
If you'd rather fix specific photos without re-uploading the whole shoot: open the affected photo, click AutoFill, mask the area where the item was removed, and prompt for a replacement (e.g., "floor lamp"). AutoFill is free and generates a similar item back. Note that AutoFill creates a new lamp rather than restoring the original - for an exact match, the re-upload path is cleaner.
Two separate issues:
The merge - two angles that looked visually similar got grouped and edited together. To fix the current shoot: take the input brackets for each of the two angles and upload them as separate shoots. They'll get grouped properly and edited individually. To prevent future merges: make sure each angle in your shoot is clearly distinct, or upload similar angles as separate shoots from the start.
Building cut off by perspective correction - perspective correction warps and crops slightly to straighten verticals. On wide building shots, this can clip the edges. Fix: go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings, toggle Perspective Correction off, re-upload. Re-runs are free - you only pay when you download.
If AI Re-Edit didn't solve it, try the White Balance slider directly in your listing gallery. Click the photo and adjust the WB slider - this is a simpler color adjustment that often catches what AI Re-Edit can't.
For future shoots: shooting auto white balance and bracketing mid → dark → bright helps the AI lock onto a clean color reference from the start.
Blown highlights mean the darkest bracket didn't have detail in those areas. The AI can only deliver highlight detail as good as what your darkest exposure captured - if a lamp is fully blown white in every bracket, there's no data to recover.
Fix for the current shoot: use AI Re-Edit on the affected photo with a prompt like "reduce the lamp glow, bring back detail in the overexposed areas around the light fixtures." It often improves the result - worth trying before re-shooting.
Fix for future shoots: shoot a darker exposure as part of your bracket set - dark enough that even the lamps show some detail. That gives the AI data to work with going forward.
They do different things and suit different situations:
Twilight model at upload — select this from the model dropdown when naming your shoot before uploading. Use it when your photos were actually shot at twilight or golden hour and you want the edit to match that lighting. The whole shoot processes through the twilight model as part of the standard edit. Timing: same as any standard shoot (typically under 30 minutes). Cost: 1 credit per photo on download, same as a standard edit.
Virtual Twilight button (post-edit) — click this on any already-edited photo in your listing gallery to generate a day-to-dusk conversion. Use it when you have a standard daytime photo and want a twilight version without re-shooting. Timing: approximately 30 seconds per photo. Cost: 5 credits to generate, plus 1 credit to download.
When generating a Virtual Twilight, you can choose from different sky styles (Standard, Golden, Pink, Midnight) and intensity levels. You can regenerate to iterate until the result looks right.
In summary: Twilight model at upload is for photos actually shot at dusk (standard edit cost, full shoot). Virtual Twilight button is for converting a daytime photo after the fact (5 credits, per photo, fast).
This is a known limitation with certain exterior shots. When the original photo has strong directional shadows baked into the facade, the twilight model transforms the sky but can't always remove the underlying shadow pattern — so the result looks like a dimmed daytime photo rather than a true dusk scene. Regenerating the twilight (using the loop icon) is always worth a quick try, but if the shadows persist across multiple regenerations, AI Re-Edit is the most reliable fix.
Open the generated twilight in your listing gallery, click AI Re-Edit, and use a prompt that directly addresses the shadows and lighting. For example:
"Remove the harsh daylight shadows from the building facade. Add a soft evening glow on the exterior. The photo should look like it was shot at dusk, not like a darkened daytime image."
Being specific about the facade, the shadows, and the look you want — dusk feel, not just dark — gives the AI the clearest direction and produces the best result.
Open the listing at autohdr.com/listings, click the twilight photo, and use the loop/regenerate icon next to the twilight button. You can try different styles and intensities.
If trees are being removed or the sky looks unnatural, select Obstructed Sky View in the regenerate options - that usually fixes it.
Purple tinting across an entire shoot almost always means the RAW files had a format compatibility issue during conversion. Fix: convert your input files to JPEG and re-upload. The JPEGs will process cleanly.
For future shoots: shooting JPEG directly avoids this entirely - faster upload, faster processing, same output quality.
Two things are likely happening:
The blur - usually means either the input bracket itself was slightly blurry, or there was misalignment between brackets (often when two visually similar angles got grouped together). AutoHDR can align shaky handheld shots, but if there was movement during the actual shot that blurred the input bracket, that blur stays in the output.
The window views - the AI can only show what's in your darkest bracket. If that exposure was still too bright to see outside clearly, there's no data to pull from. To fix: re-upload with a darker exterior bracket included.
For the blur on the current shoot: use AI Re-Edit on the affected photo with a prompt like "regenerate this area with cleaner detail, no ghosting." It often improves the result.
For future shoots: make sure your bracket range covers from very dark (you can see outside clearly) to very bright (the interior is fully exposed). That gives the AI everything it needs to pull from.
Yep, we recommend shooting JPEG. We've trained the model specifically to perform just as well on JPEG as it does on RAW. There is no benefit to using raw files, and JPEG will upload tremendously faster and get edited faster. It's better in all circumstances, and we recommend shooting JPEG.
Yes. If you go to AutoHDR.com/account, you can turn on TV screen replacements and fire insertions by default, and this will apply to all of your photo shoots going forward.
Hey, I'll be happy to help get your photos edited. Can you just clarify if this was an upload of an entire photo shoot on our homepage, or were you making AI edits in the listing gallery?
If it's an upload from the home page, you can check if it's being edited by going to your listings tab and there will be a status bar. If it's an AI edit on a finished photo (like a twilight generation or grass screening), try refreshing the page or generating it again. If you run into any issues, let me know, I'll help you get it generated!
Shoot JPG with at least three brackets. There's no difference in quality between JPG and RAW. Shooting JPG will just let you upload files faster and edit shoots faster. We recommend shooting at least three brackets with two EV stops apart so that we can get sufficient dynamic range and capture all of the view outside of the windows as well as the darker areas of the room.
By default, the files that we give back to you have the same exact names as one of the input brackets that you had uploaded for that bracketed set. So the file names will be the same, but if you do want to customize it, you can go to autohdr.com/account, scroll to your profile settings, and you'll see the ability to change your default file name. Now you can brand this to be your business And then it will be your business\_1, 2, 3, etc. In the future, that'll apply to all of your future photo shoots. But for any given photo shoot, if you want to rename it on the fly during the download, you can do that by going to your listings page and modifying it right when you're downloading an individual listing too.
Please send me an example of what you mean by the texture issues. Sometimes there can be weird texture issues. If either a dark bracket only or a bright bracket only gets edited by itself because of a grouping mistake or missing other brackets of a 3- or 5-brackets set, let me know exactly what you're seeing, and I can advise on what to do best. If there is a complete 3-set, then you should be able to have a nice crispy image with full dynamic range. You might get an output that's a single dark bracket that got edited, but you won't be able to tell because the model still fixes it quite well. But there's only so much it can do with a dark-only or a bright-only image, so you're going to see it largely messed up and distorted. So don't assume that that's the full 3-bracket set being edited. It could be a grouping mistake.
So, when is the next update? Our team makes changes on a daily basis. We're constantly looking at customer support requests, listening to feedback, and looking at all the photos that come in throughout the day to see what's wrong and fix little tiny pain points. Every few months, we release a new model entirely, which is a big upgrade over previous generations \- with better speed, quality, and overall capabilities.
As many as you want! Whether that's 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, it doesn't matter. You just take all your photos \- that could be your aerials and your interiors and your exteriors \- all at once. It doesn't matter if they're all different bracket sets and you just drop them in because we've developed a very advanced vision-based grouping algorithm where timestamps can't mess it up. It doesn't matter how many brackets you shoot. You just dump them all in, and it will do all the work for you to group the right ones together and perfectly edit them for you.
Yes, on autoHDR.com/listings, when you click the image, you can use the sliders to modify the colors of the listing. These are just simple edits like white balance. If you want to fundamentally change the style that all of your photo shoots get edited with, go to autoHDR.com/account and modify your style settings.
Yes, AutoHDR now accepts all raw file formats. Across thousands of photographers, there are more raw file formats than you could possibly imagine. Sometimes, if you see a super messed up, distorted, funky-looking image, it was because one of those raw files got corrupted when we tried to convert it out of RAW sensor data for processing.
Now that we've seen so many variations, we've got it all compatible. That being said, there's always new raw file formats that are coming out, so if you do see something weird, it might be because it's brand new and we've never seen it before. The easiest way to avoid all of this is just by shooting JPEG. We've trained the AI very intentionally so that RAW vs JPEG results in zero quality difference, and actually JPEG is just going to make your life a whole lot easier because the files are smaller, they take up less storage, they upload faster, and they edit faster.
So we recommend shooting JPEG and you'll have the same quality as before. If you ever see a seriously distorted edit, please let us know so we can get you good edits and fix it for the future.
We archive photos after 7 days because we are an editing company, not a file storage company :) Download the images within that period to retain them long-term!
If you received less photos than you should have based on your upload, please let me know the name of the photo shoot so I can have our developers look into it. If all of the images were very similar or the exact same angle, they could have been grouped and edited together. We don't group based on timestamp; we group based on the visual similarity of input brackets. Also make sure that you have deduplication turned off in your style settings because if the images were similar to each other, the near duplicates would have been removed.
Yes, we can. That being said, we can produce extremely high-quality flambient-level results with only HDR brackets because of how our AI is trained. So if you want to get rid of the extra work of shooting flash and move to just shooting three-bracket HDR, you can achieve the same results while making your life easier.
If you want to access human-in-the-loop, we have built a system you can customize with your own editor. Any time you flag a photo, it sends them the inputs and gives them an upload box which will swap it out in your gallery. This is an efficient project management tool for companies doing high volumes who want to easily involve a human editor for special requests.
Yes, we have the option to buy individual credits without being on a plan at all. You can top up photos using the top-up bar at autohdr.com/pricing — current per-photo rates are listed there. It is dramatically less expensive if you do get on a paid plan. The top-up bar allows you to add credits at any time at your current plan's price per photo. A good way of saving money is — once you're comfortable using the software for all of your projects — getting on a higher volume paid plan. This will get you a lower price per photo each month and will also allow you to top up credits any time you want at a very discounted price per photo. For current plan pricing, visit autohdr.com/pricing.
You should be able to download photos as long as you have enough credits for the selection you've made. The free trial gives you one week of credits based on the plan you selected. For example, if the plan you are trialing provides 500 credits a month, you will get 125 credits during your free week trial.
The virtual Twilight should only take 30 seconds. If it's taking a long time, please try again. If you have any issues, please let me know which photo you're trying to make into a virtual Twilight, and I can help you ensure it gets edited.
Occasionally \- in the input brackets \- it's hard for even a human to tell whether the wall is yellow from a color cast or the paint is actually a light shade of yellow. So, the model is able to do the best with the information that it has from the photos that were uploaded.
The best way to get accurate colors in the edited photos is by making sure the color is visible in at least one of your input brackets.
That being said, the last thing we want is for your clients to be unhappy, so if they complain or there's a glaring error, feel free to send it to us and we will fix it for you promptly so that you never miss a deadline.
If you click the 'Crop' button in the listing gallery view, you'll see a little rotation icon. You can click that and drag it to the left or right to rotate your photos. This just does tilt correction. If you don't like the perspective correction from the edit, feel free to re-upload the raw brackets and deselect "perspective correction" under the options while uploading on the website.
If you have a super overexposed input bracket with no pixel data in a portion of it (it's just pure white), the model might interpret it as a blown-out region of the sky. To avoid this, try to upload properly exposed brackets where at least one of them has pixel data in that region. If you do have a bad sky bleed, please send us the photo. You need re-edited, and we'll make sure that it's usable for your client.
We have several tools for post-processing:
We're always making these tools smarter and more capable.
We only store files for 7 days, so please download them within that period. If for some reason you lost them, we don't want you to pay twice, so feel free to re-upload the raw photos for that shoot. We'll add back some credits for the duplicate downloads :)
Yes, we do! If you want to be able to see out of windows or in areas that are generally overexposed with only a single exposure, we recommend shooting at least three brackets. However, we can produce results that look like a high dynamic range photo from a single exposure.
No, we do not.
In case you're curious \- we cannot improve our model from only having your inputs \- because we also need an edited image to train the model.
When you press "Download", the download process will initiate, and your credits will be deducted. However, the photos will all be marked as downloaded. Since they're already considered downloaded, you can download them all again, and you will not be deducted credits again.
If a thumbnail of a photo has a check mark on it, that means it's already considered downloaded, and you can re-download those as many times as you want \- credits will not be deducted again. So don't worry there.
If your shoot is stuck for over 30 minutes, there's a small chance that it's because you uploaded very very large raw input files that are taking a while to process. If for any reason we can't edit the shoot, it will fail, and it will go into a queue which our developers monitor. Don't worry \- if anything goes wrong, we will rerun it immediately to make sure it goes through. Or, if we can't rerun it, we will let you know what the issue is and help you get your shoot processed.
Hey, it's super easy to integrate with Spiro. Just check out this tutorial:
https://support.spiro.media/en/articles/10750271-autohdr-setup-and-configuration-guide
You upload photos. Then we sort them, edit them, and send them back to you in a matter of minutes at half the cost of a human editor, but at the quality of a human editor. We're trusted by thousands of photographers across the world and are the number one real estate photo editor globally. We hope to help you automate and scale your photography business!
Yes! Auto HDR uses a vision-based grouping algorithm to detect multiple exposures of the same angle. Group them together, and then use AI to edit them like a human would.
When you add a team member in autoHDR.com/account, the team member can then log into their account, go to autoHDR.com/account, scroll to the bottom, and click "Access Team Account." This will allow them to view all of the same listings and use credits from your shared credit pool. This effectively gives everyone access to the same account, you can collaborate on projects and use the same credit pool. You can also turn on/off notifications if you don't want your employees receiving emails for shoots that are complete.
Virtual staging is 5 credits, and item removals through auto remove or item additions through autofill are completely free.
1 credit equals 1 photo. The price per photo depends on what plan you're on. You can view our plan options at autoHDR.com/pricing
Auto HDR credits always roll over from month to month unless you cancel your subscription. If you choose to cancel, the credits will remain for the rest of your billing period and then go away when your subscription officially ends.
Yep, you can pay as you go by topping up credits at autohdr.com/pricing using the top-up bar. Current per-photo top-up rates are listed on the pricing page. If you want to dramatically lower the price per photo, we recommend getting comfortable using AutoHDR so you can start editing your photos through it and get on a plan. This will allow you to get your price per photo much lower, and then you can still top up photos any time at your current price per photo.
Yes, it's secure. When you upload photos, AutoHDR edits them and returns the edited photos to you. In case you have any problems with your photos, we retain the raw photos as well as the edited photos for 7 days. You should download them within that 7-day period because afterwards we archive those to offload the storage consumption.
For current pricing and plan options, visit https://autohdr.com/pricing — rates vary by tier and are updated on the pricing page.
Yes, while the system is not necessarily trained specifically for 360 photos, we see many users upload 360 photos and get excellent results that make their 360 tours look dramatically better. Feel free to upload your shots for free to see how they look. You only pay for what you download.
If someone has invited you to join their team, you need to go to autohdr.com/account, scroll to the very bottom, and click the button that says "Access team account." This will let you see all of the team listings, upload shared listings, and access the team credit pool.
If your upload is not starting, it's possible that your Wi-Fi connection is slow and causing a delay. You're likely to see this if your raw files are extremely large. Btw, JPEG inputs are best because the quality of results will be the same as RAWs, but they upload a lot faster.
If the upload never begins, please let me know and send me a publicly accessible link to the photos you are trying to upload, so I can speak with our developers and see if there's anything unique to these photos that are causing an issue!
Yes, the size of the files that we return to you generally scales proportionally with the size of the files that you send to us. The edited photos that we give to you should never typically exceed 20 megabytes.
Exceptionally good. Many of the photographers that use AutoHDR shoot handheld with no problems. We have a very sophisticated alignment process that will make handheld shoots look like they were shot on a tripod. Just make sure that any of the images are not actually blurry themselves from shaking during the bracket being captured. However, it's fine if the images have misalignments from image to image.
Make sure that you include a sufficiently dark bottom-level exposure shot in your brackets. The rule of thumb is that we can create a window view that's as good as the window view in your darkest bracket. So make sure when you're shooting that the lowest exposure shot is dark enough where we can see out of the window and the window is not blown out. The model can only create an edit from the data it receives from your bracket shots.
If it's a shoot that shot at Twilight, you can use the Twilight model when uploading into AutoHDR. You'll see a dropdown when you're asked to name your project that lets you select from different models. You can use the Twilight model there. If you want to make a virtual Twilight after the photos are edited, you can select the photo and then click the Twilight button. Also, if you want to do it on multiple photos at once, you can select multiple photos, hit Bulk Edit, then select Twilight.
Virtual twilights take 30 seconds or less.
For best results, you should shoot with at least three brackets. The model just needs a dark bracket that's dark enough to see out of the window. If you're in an especially bright and sunny market like Florida or California, shooting five brackets 2EV is best because sometimes just three brackets does not make it dark enough to see out of the window on a very sunny day.
You actually just dump them all in. The beauty of auto HDR is that you don't have to do any manual sorting or identification. We will detect, group and edit everything with AI, and send them back to you in a few minutes.
Yes, you can. Whatever you upload, just make sure that there's sufficient views outside of the window and that there's no missing data from over or underexposed regions. As long as we have data in every part of the image, we can create a beautifully edited photo for you.
Shoot 3 brackets, \+/- 2 EV apart, in JPEG.
For real estate photography in general, best settings are:
ISO between 200-400
F-stop between 8-11
Shoot aperture priority mode
Yes, it can. Auto HDR can produce very high-quality results without requiring a flash shot, which can simplify your shooting workflow, save you time and hassle, while getting the same quality of results. So we just recommend shooting 3 bracket JPEG. Try it for yourself!
If you've uploaded a shoot, it should be ready in five minutes or less. If you have especially large raw image files, it can take a bit longer for us to download them and process. We recommend shooting JPEG because our AI model is trained to give the same quality of output whether you shoot raw or JPEG images. Therefore, shooting in JPG does not degrade quality and just saves you time.
If you want to add a human-in-the-loop, we have built a system where you can easily integrate your own editor for special edit requests. Any time you flag a photo, it sends them the inputs and gives them an upload box to upload the edited image to. This will swap it out in your gallery.
This is a super efficient project management tool for companies doing high volumes who want to easily involve a human editor for special requests!
Yes, we can intake raw files, but note that occasionally there are new raw file formats that we haven't seen before and can become corrupted when we convert them out of raw sensor data before editing. If you do see this or the shoot fails, convert the images to JPG first and then re-upload.
If you see duplicate edits in your listing, it means that the grouping process failed to group those two angles together. That means that the duplicate images you're seeing probably look terrible because they're a result of us editing the dark only or the bright only exposure. Our grouping algorithm is very sophisticated, and this is uncommon. Please send us the photo shoot where you see duplicates so that we can take a closer look and see if it's anything specific to your input files that are causing this!
No, don't let your camera blend it. Send all input brackets to us because we will replicate the hand blending process that a human does, which is a lot more intricate and better looking than the blend that your camera will do automatically. Ours involves AI.
If you just uploaded the brackets, it's probably because you're on a photo shoot that was more than seven days ago. We archive photo shoots after seven days. Any new photo shoots that you just uploaded will show up under autohdr.com/listings in chronological order.
Make sure that you have sufficient dynamic range in your uploaded brackets. We recommend shooting at least three brackets with \+/- 2 EV apart. You can adjust the intensity of the window pulls by going to AutoHJR.com/account and changing the window pull intensity in your style settings.
Use auto bracketing and shoot three brackets \+/- 2 EV.
Separately, in general, for real estate photography, using aperture priority mode with an ISO between 200 and 400 and an f-stop between 8 and 11 is ideal when shooting with a tripod.
AutoHDR has a variety of proprietary models that are trained from custom data sets and one-of-a-kind model architectures that are all uniquely developed from scratch and deployed with high reliability.
You can upload whatever size you want. If you're shooting JPEG, we recommend shooting the largest size JPEG file format on your camera. Whatever dimensions the photos are that you send to us, we will send back to you in the same dimensions.
For getting super accurate wall colors, make sure that your input brackets are also representative of the actual wall color. We recommend shooting auto white balance. If you've inaccurate colors, I recommend looking at your input photos to see if our edits have paint color that is similar to what it looks like in your input images. Another tip is if possible, in your bracketing shoot the mid image, then the dark image, then the bright image. With auto bracketing, the white balance settings is set for all three brackets based on the first image that is taken from the set.
Scroll to the very bottom of this page to see a live photo stream:
https://www.autohdr.com/free-credits
You can also check out some projects in high res by clicking 'sample edits' on knowledge.autohdr.com
If you purchase a yearly plan and you run out of credits, you can always top up and buy more credits at the price per photo of your current plan.
If you have a new account or you want to sign up, in the top right corner, just click the Sign In button. This will prompt you to select an email to sign in with. We use Google Sign In, so as long as it's a domain that was set up through Google or Gmail account, you can go ahead and just sign in there with your email, and that is it. That is everything you need to sign up for or sign in to your AutoHDR account.
If you purchased an AutoHDR account and gave our team an email that is not a Google email, please let us know so that we can swap the email that your credits are under to a proper Google account, so you can sign in and start processing shoots right away!
No, if you have any issues with your photo please let me know so I can help you get the best results. Also, check out knowledge.autohdr.com for best practices. The one difference with some paid plans is you unlock more automated features for AI editing (see AutoHDR.com/account for all the options).
You don't train the AI. We train the AI constantly by accumulating large data sets, getting them edited by the best editors in the world, and doing massive training runs to iteratively make better and better models to give to the real estate photography community.
If you've run into an error in the editing, can you send me the photos you need fixed, and I'll help you correct them for the agent?
If you have 4 separate listings in your account, you can't merge them into one. If you want them to be merged into one, you have two options:
Yes, virtual staging allows you to generate furniture in empty rooms. Also, if there's already furniture in a room, you can remove the existing furniture and re-visualize what that room would look like with a different style of furnishings. We have several different styles you can provide, which makes a great upsell to the real estate agents to help them market the property. Either if the furniture is outdated or the property is vacant entirely.
Yes you can. Go to autohdr.com/listings and open up the photo shoot you want to add virtual staging to. Click the photo and click Staging, or select multiple photos and use Bulk Edit to stage several at once. Note: consistent furniture across multiple angles of the same room is not a supported feature. You can remove existing furniture if you need to, and then add furniture in whatever room type and style you want.
You can't get the original sky retained if the photoshoot has already been edited. But you can re-upload the photoshoot and deselect the sky replacement option, which will retain the original sky. You only pay for what you download, so you can upload the shoot again for free.
Yes, in fact we have multiple different style profiles you can select in autohdr.com/account for different intensity levels. You can also modify things like brightness, contrast, vibrance and more to increase or decrease it across every single photo shoot. You can even change it for interior photos only or exterior photos only. And have a lot of granularity over how you want your photos to look.
Yes, we do! Open the listing in your gallery, click the photo, and hit Staging — or select multiple photos and use Bulk Edit to stage several at once. Note: consistent furniture across multiple angles of the same room is not a supported feature. You can remove furniture, add furniture, and select from a variety of different styles.
The "Human in the Loop" button allows you to add your own editor. Once you add an editor going forward, if you ever click the human button in your listings gallery, it will email that editor and give them a cue of your photos that have a human edit request. In that cue, the editor can click to download the inputs for a specific photo and it will give them a simple box where they can upload and replace the photo you requested an edit for.
We built this system so that high-volume teams have an efficient way of looping in a human editor for special requests without having to manually send files and communicate revision requests.
All of the photo editing is done by AI. Human quality at superhuman speed 😎
It sounds like the photo with the cabinets open and closed got grouped together by our grouping algorithm. It looks at similar angles, so that makes sense. If you want them both edited, take the raw photos for each angle and upload them by themselves as separate photo shoots. This way they won't get merged and edited together, and you'll get both of your edited photos separately.
If you use the slider for more vibrance, you just click Save and that will update the photo.
Please let me know what you're seeing when you try to download it. If it's a very large photo shoot, it might just take a little bit. If you have any trouble, tell me the photo shoot, and I can download and send you the files.
Yes, we do not do grouping based on timestamps. We do it based on how similar the angles look to each other. So it doesn't matter the time difference between brackets.
Hey, it just means they were deducted when the download started. If you didn't complete the download, no worries. It will not deduct credits twice. Once a file is considered downloaded and has a check mark on it, you can download it as many times as you want without any credit deductions.
Yes, we can edit flash. However, we recommend shooting HDR \- it will make your life easier during the photo shoot, and we can provide the same results that an editor normally would require a flash for.
Uploading JPEG is optimal because the quality produced by the AI will be no different than raw, and they will upload and edit faster, than (large) RAW files.
Approximately 30 seconds.
Yes, absolutely. You do not need to shoot HDR, we can also edit single exposures, and even create images that look like they were HDR inputs just with one bracket.
There are two separate settings:
If you want to add your own editor into your human-in-the-loop, you would need to pay for that editor.
They do roll over month to month. The only situation where you would ever lose your credits is if you cancel entirely. Even if you cancel, you still retain your credits until the end of the billing period to use up.
You can re-edit any photo yourself using the AI Re-Edit tool — describe exactly what you'd like changed and we'll regenerate it. AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit per use.
If you have an image that came back with a clear processing error and you can't fix it with our tools, our team can step in. Send us the shoot link and point out the specific photo with the issue — we'll review it and get it corrected so you're not stuck waiting on delivery.
You should not have been charged for two! It costs 5 credits to process a Twilight image. If you think there was a mistake, please let me know, and I can check the credit deduction history. You can also check the credit deduction history to see if you were charged twice by going to autohdr.com/account and viewing the credit logs.
If there is a camera or tripod in the mirror, or any reflection, we will automatically detect it and remove it for you. If there is something you need removed from a mirror, you can also use the auto-remove tool to circle it and press remove. The AI will remove it for you.
Yes, JPEG is best overall. Shooting in JPEG will allow us to directly edit the image captured on site without manipulating it when converting out of raw file format. It will also be a lot faster.
As of August 2025, Auto HDR automatically detects camera and tripod reflections and shadows and removes those by default. It does not remove people by default, just in case you're photographing an exterior or you wanted people in the photos. If you do want to remove a person, you can use the Auto Remove tool in the Listing Gallery after the photos are edited. You can circle the person and press Remove, and AI will remove it for you.
It does not cost anything additional; it just is included on a few of our higher volume packages. You can see which plans it's available on at AutoHDR.com/Pricing. If you don't want to get on a higher volume plan, you can use the Auto Fill tool to add a TV screen image using AI for free. However, it doesn't happen automatically on the Photo Editing.
If you just signed up for an account, you have 30 free credits which would allow you to process 6 twilight photos for free to test it out! Every virtual twilight costs 5 credits.
Just a pulse and some photos to upload!
Click "Sign In" and you can make an account in one click.
Then, on our home page, you can upload as many photos as you'd like and start testing it for free.
You only pay for what you download, so you can see results for free, and then get on a plan if you like the quality.
Open the photo in your listing gallery and click AutoRemove. Draw a circle or selection around the object you want removed, then click Remove. The AI fills in the area behind where the object was.
AutoRemove is free and works on any delivered photo. For adding items rather than removing them, use the separate AutoFill tool.
Yes - open your listing at autohdr.com/listings, click Select All to highlight every photo in the gallery, then click Download. This downloads your entire shoot as a ZIP file. Each photo is charged 1 credit on first download; re-downloading is free.
If you only want specific photos, use the checkboxes on individual photos to select just those, then click Download.
Dark output almost always means your brightest bracket wasn't bright enough - the AI can only blend what your input brackets capture. If your brightest exposure still leaves corners pitch black, the AI has nothing to fill in the shadows with.
Fix for the current shoot: use AI Re-Edit on the dark photos with a prompt like "brighten the overall image, lift the shadows and dark corners, increase the exposure."
Fix for future shoots: make sure your bracket range includes a bright enough exposure - your brightest should be bright enough that even dark corners have visible detail. If shooting 3 brackets at ±2 EV and still getting dark results, try 3 brackets at ±3 EV, or shoot 5 brackets at ±2 EV - that gives the AI wider exposure range to work with.
Graininess in dark areas means your ISO was too high - for real estate, shoot between ISO 200-400 when possible.
AutoHDR applies lens distortion correction automatically to RAW uploads when your lens is in our database. If you're seeing extreme distortion that didn't get corrected - fisheye curves, very wide-angle warping - the most likely cause is that your specific lens profile isn't in our database yet.
Workaround: open your RAW files in Lightroom or Capture One, enable Lens Corrections in the export panel (Lightroom: "Enable Profile Corrections" under Lens Corrections), and export as JPEG. The exported JPEGs will have correction baked in and AutoHDR processes them as-is.
If the warping is from a tilt or perspective issue rather than the lens itself, the same export workflow applies - Lightroom's Geometry/Upright tool can correct that before export.
Ghosting across most of a shoot means the camera moved significantly between bracket frames - either handheld shake beyond what alignment can correct, or the camera being bumped. AutoHDR can correct minor handheld shake, but if there was actual camera movement between frames, the AI can't align them cleanly and the result looks transparent or doubled.
Fix for the current shoot: use AI Re-Edit on affected photos with a prompt like "remove ghosting and transparency artifacts, clean up the blended areas." It often improves the result.
For future shoots: a tripod prevents this entirely. If you'd rather stay handheld, make sure the camera isn't touched between bracket frames - even a gentle bump during the sequence can cause this across every photo in the shoot.
Washed-out or flat results are almost always a bracket exposure issue - the AI needs sufficient dynamic range across your brackets to produce a rich HDR-style output. If your brackets don't span enough range, the result loses contrast and color.
Check your brackets: your darkest bracket should be dark enough to clearly see out of windows (no blown-out highlights), and your brightest bracket should be bright enough that interior shadows have visible detail (no pitch-black corners). A standard 3-bracket set at ±2 EV covers most rooms.
Quick fix for the current shoot: use AI Re-Edit on the affected photos with a prompt like "increase contrast and color saturation, make the image look rich and HDR, not flat or washed out."
Profile choice also matters: Lisa produces more punch and deeper window pulls than Classic. If you're on Classic and finding results flat, try switching to Lisa in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings and re-uploading.
If you have a cloud type set via your outdoor model in Style Settings but your shoots come back with plain blue sky, here's what to check:
Sky Replacement was enabled at upload. Sky Replacement can be toggled on or off when you start a new shoot. If it was off for that upload, your cloud preference won't apply because the sky isn't being replaced at all. Re-upload with Sky Replacement enabled - re-runs are free since you only pay when you download.
Outdoor model is set correctly in Style Settings. Your cloud style (Fluffy, etc.) is tied to the outdoor model selection in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings. Confirm the outdoor model is set to the one with the cloud style you want. If it looks right but isn't applying, change it to something else, save, then back to your preferred model and save again. Re-upload to apply.
If both are set correctly and you're still getting plain blue sky, send us your account email and an affected shoot link - that points to a real issue on our end and we'll check what's happening.
The Declutter tool uses AI to identify and remove items it classifies as clutter - small objects, cords, personal items. It can sometimes remove things you wanted to keep (lamps, chairs, decorative pieces) because it can't always distinguish intentional décor from clutter.
For the affected shoot: AI Re-Edit can generate a similar-looking item back, but it won't match the original - it's a generated approximation, not a true restoration. The cleanest path is to send us the shoot link and we'll have our team restore the items directly from your input photos.
For future shoots: if Declutter is over-removing across most of your shoots, the cleanest fix is to turn it off in your /account → Style Settings. Declutter is opt-in (costs 1 credit per photo when enabled), so disabling it saves credits as well.
There's no "keep this item" toggle on Declutter, so for shoots with statement furniture or lamps you want preserved, leaving Declutter off is the safest approach.
An orange or warm cast across a shoot usually means one of two things:
Shooting in tungsten/incandescent lighting - warm-toned bulbs create an orange cast that the AI neutralizes as best it can, but in rooms dominated by warm light, some cast often remains. To fix on the current shoot: open the affected photo in your listing gallery and use the White Balance slider - these are simple color adjustments and often catch what the base edit can't. If the WB slider doesn't fully resolve it, AI Re-Edit is the next try with a prompt like "correct the white balance, reduce the warm orange cast, make the walls neutral white."
White balance not set to Auto when shooting - if your camera was on a fixed WB preset (like Cloudy or Shade), it can bake in a cast. Shooting Auto White Balance gives the AI the most accurate color reference to work from.
For future shoots: shoot Auto White Balance and lead with your mid-exposure bracket - auto WB locks to the first frame, so a mid-exposure gives the most representative reading.
This is a known limitation of the virtual twilight AI - when generating the nighttime scene, it sometimes alters numbers, signs, or text on the home exterior. It's generating what it thinks should be there rather than reading the actual number.
Best fix: use the regenerate loop icon to try new versions - different generations often preserve the number correctly. Try a few before spending credits on anything else.
If the number is still wrong after several regenerations, use AutoFill - mask over the house number and prompt: "house number [correct number], clear and legible." AutoFill gives you direct control over the text.
The grass replacement effect can vary by photo. A few things to know:
If it looks too green/artificial:
Grass replacement applies a consistent level of vibrancy - there's no manual intensity slider today. To dial it back on a specific photo, here's what's available:
If this is a consistent problem across most of your shoots, send us a few samples - we'll flag it for the team since this is the kind of feedback that drives product changes (e.g., a natural/vibrant intensity setting).
If it's not applying to some photos:
Grass replacement runs when the AI detects a lawn area. If a photo with no clear lawn gets skipped, that's normal. But if you're seeing a photo with clearly visible grass that didn't get the replacement, that's a detection miss worth investigating - send us the shoot link and we'll take a look.
If you were charged for a photo where the replacement didn't apply, let us know and we'll review the credit.
You can stage individual photos or use Bulk Edit to stage multiple at once — however, keeping furniture consistent across multiple angles of the same room is not a supported feature. Each photo gets independently generated furniture, so results will vary between angles.
If you're staging a room with multiple angles, your best bet is to stage them together in Bulk Edit and use Regenerate on any that don't look right. But exact furniture matching across angles isn't something we can guarantee today.
Staging is 5 credits per photo.
Bulk Edit gives you a few different options to apply bulk AI edits to your photos:
Note: You can use Bulk Edit to stage multiple photos at once. However, consistent furniture across multiple angles of the same room is not a supported feature.
To use Bulk Edit: select multiple images, click 'Bulk Edit', and choose your edit.
The listing will be available in the listing gallery for 7 days after processing!
The best results will be shooting JPEG and uploading the unmerged input brackets. This allows us to replicate the human hand blending and masking process.
However, you can upload raw or JPEGs. You can also upload multiple exposures or already combined exposures.
You simply drop in your unedited photos and AI will group them and edit them and send them back to you in a few minutes. It removes all the manual work from you and processes the photos faster than a human editor at half the cost. There are also many options for full automation of your workflow, which you can learn about at knowledge.autohdr.com.
In autohdr.com/account, you can change your style settings and turn off the automatic fire replacement. Also, if you ever get a false positive fireplace (a fire in the wrong place), you can just click the fire button when you're viewing the image and it will remove the fire from the photo.
Separately, if you want to help us train the fire detection model, click the flag icon on the image that has a false positive fireplace and report the false positive.
If you have a listing that's already been edited by AutoHDR, go to autohdr.com/listings, click the photo, and then click the Twilight button to convert the photo to a twilight.
If you want your VA to have access to your account as well, you can set up a team account. Go to autoHDR.com/account, scroll to the bottom of the page, and then you can add your VA's email.
Your VA then needs to log in to AutoHDR.com/account and under the team section, your VA needs to click "Access team account." That will allow your VA to upload listings, see all of the listings your team uploads, and use the shared credit pool.
If you cannot enable it, you need to upgrade to a plan that has the automatic TV blackout and fire replacement included. If you don't want to go on that plan, you can always use the auto fill tool to do it yourself when viewing the photos in autoHDR.com/listings.
You can upload every single photo for your photo shoot at once. We will automatically group them and edit them for you.
The classic model is the "gold standard" industry style that is considered high quality and used by most companies. The Lisa model has extra "pop" and much deeper window pulls \- for if you want to make your photos stand out with extra intensity.
Aura is AutoHDR's newest and most advanced editing model — built specifically for photographers who want magazine-level, high-end results.
Here's what makes it different:
Aura is priced at 5 credits per photo due to its premium quality, exclusivity, and the level of processing involved — the same as virtual twilight or virtual staging.
It's built for photographers targeting luxury and high-end real estate markets who want to differentiate their work and charge accordingly.
Aura is designed around flambient-style photography and gives you two options:
If you shoot flash brackets (flambient): Aura uses your flash and ambient frames exactly as captured and blends them to match a premium, hand-edited look with high accuracy.
If you shoot ambient-only (no flash): Aura can infer and reconstruct the flash effect and shadow detail from your ambient brackets alone — no flash required. This is what we call generative mode.
For best results with Aura, we recommend A/B testing JPEG vs. RAW with your specific camera to see which improves your workflow without compromising output quality.
Yes — Aura is priced at 5 credits per photo, compared to 1 credit per photo for a standard Classic or Lisa edit. This reflects its premium quality, the level of AI processing involved, and its positioning as a luxury product.
The intent behind the pricing is deliberate: Aura is meant to help you position your services at a higher price point and attract high-end clients — so you can charge more per shoot and more than offset the difference in editing cost.
Aura is built for photographers targeting the luxury and premium real estate market — think listings where the photography needs to convey lifestyle, emotion, and magazine-quality aesthetics rather than just accurate documentation.
It's a great fit if you:
If you're shooting standard HDR for volume real estate work, Classic or Lisa will handle that beautifully and at a lower cost per photo. Aura is the upgrade tier for shoots where quality and presentation are the priority over speed or volume.
There's not a specific way to manipulate the color of the lights, but there are three different style settings you can select currently when choosing a virtual twilight. You can also select from three different intensities. If you've already processed the virtual twilight, feel free to use the regenerate button to try different styles.
Here's the credit breakdown for each:
If you have 10 input images in they're all 5 input brackets, that would result in 2 final photos. One credit is equivalent to one final photo.
You can try as many listings as you want for free to test the quality before getting on a plan. Therefore, we don't issue refunds on plans. However, if there's ever an accidental credit usage, we will be generous in crediting those back to your account.
You can check out our refund policy at knowledge.AutoHDR.com.
If you go to autohdr.com/listings, you'll be able to see the status of any in-progress edits. Any shoot that we're currently processing, you will see in the listings tab, and if you click on it, you'll see what stage it's in.
You can shoot handheld with 3 brackets, and we can align them if they're not perfectly overlapping. Just make sure that you don't move the camera during the shot, causing blur in any of those individual brackets.
The best results for interiors or overexposed exterior views come from at least three brackets:
That said, we can still edit single-bracket photos, but if there's no detail out of the window or in the dark parts of the room, you shouldn't expect them to be visible in the edit either.
Yes, we can perfectly edit DNG image files from drones. However, there is no quality difference between DNGs and JPEG because of how we've trained the AI. Therefore, we recommend shooting and uploading JPEG to save yourself time in the upload process.
You can shoot with lights on or lights off! AutoHDR will remove color casts from light sources either way. You can include a flash shot, but it is not needed to produce high quality results.
As of August 2025, the average time to edit an entire photoshoot is under 30 minnutes.
Yes! Feel free to just upload all the photos from your SD card, we will group brackets from the same angle, and edit the entire photoshoot! No need to upload one at a time.
As of August, 2025, we do not edit videos!
Our long term mission is to automate the editing workflow for real estate photographers, eliminating as much manual work and time as possible!
If you turn on walkthrough reordering, you can select the order you want your edits to be rearranged into. Then, all of your photo shoots will come back perfectly arranged in order by the room type and sequence you have selected.
For example, you can make it so that all of your properties start with aerials, then front exterior, then front entryway, then living room, then dining room, etc. Or if you have a particular way that you reorder before delivering to your clients, you can modify the default order. This is helpful for shoots that are shot out of order and saves you the manual time of having to re-sort them before sending to your clients.
If your Twilight edit removed the trees, there is an easy fix for this. Open the image with the trees removed and then over the Twilight button you will see a little loop button. You can click that to regenerate the photo. On the popup select "Obstructed Sky View" and then process the Twilight. Regenerating the image like this will not remove the trees and give you back a usable Twilight photo.
Yes, you can click the loop icon to regenerate it in a different style or intensity. You can also select "obstructed sky view" if something in the horizon was manipulated.
If there is a fireplace that was incorrectly added, you can click the fire button and it will remove the fire from that image.
We will send an email soon as your photos are ready! It may go to spam or your promotions folder, so if you don't receive a notification, you can open your photoshoots in AutoHDR.com/listings to check the status of any photoshoot and view the live status.
On average, photoshoots take less than 30 minutes to edit.
To apply a virtual Twilight to a photo, go to autohdr.com/listings, open the shoot, click the photo, and press the Twilight button. If the photo hasn't been edited through AutoHDR yet, you'll need to upload it as a new listing first.
Go to autohdr.com/account and you can copy your referral code. Feel free to share this with any of your friends or connections in the industry. When they go to check out, they can enter your code and get 25% off their first month. You will get a 50% commission paid out immediately to your account in credits.
If something was accidentally removed, like a bike, it may have been misidentified as a tripod. If that ever happens and it results in an unusable edit, feel free to send it to me, and I'll have it fixed so you can deliver it to your client with awesome and on time!
Go to autoHDR.com/account to manipulate your style settings. You can adjust things like contrast, vibrance, and more, and apply it specifically to your interiors or just your exteriors. You can also select from different default models for your editing to get more or less "pop".
We currently support all Sony RAW file formats. If you upload a Sony RAW format that comes back looking weird, it may mean that it's a newer version that got corrupted when we were converting the RAW sensor data into an editable format. If that happens, let us know the photo shoot, and we will make the software compatible ASAP!
Yes, if the upload is still going on and you refresh the page, the upload is going to get cancelled. If you accidentally did this, you can check if the upload went through by going to autoHDR.com/listings. Any photo shoot that is in the editing process will show up in the sidebar there.
If you're using a shared team account, then every team member will be able to see all of the listings in your account.
Hey there! No \- you cannot \- but if you want to make modifications to your virtual staging, you can click the regenerate button and regenerate the staging as many times as you'd like until you get your ideal outcome.
Hey there! We won't make specific edits to the photo for you, but you can use the auto-fill tool to add items like flowers. If you need to completely restyle or restage the room, use the virtual staging button. Once generated, click the regenerate button to try different styles until you get a result you're happy with.
Yes, by default in the editing, we will make grass look more vibrant and green. We'll also remove any tripod or camera reflections and balance out heavy shadows. You can also do an entire grass replacement once the edited photos come back by clicking the grass button in the listing gallery. Also, anything you need removed you can use the 'AutoRemove' tool to do so, which is totally free.
We hold onto your edited photos for 7 days, giving you time to view and download them. After that, we archive the photos to offload storage.
If you want to automatically add fire to every fireplace in your edits, go to autohdr.com/account and toggle on the automatic fireplace feature.
If you cancel your subscription, you will get to keep your credits until the end of the billing period, then they will go away. If you want to maintain them, just downgrade to a different plan and they will continue to roll over from month to month.
Yes, absolutely! All you need to do is just upload the photos, and we'll take care of the rest. We'll send you an email when the edits are ready. You can also view the status anytime in
AutoHDR.com/listings after you've uploaded the photos.
If you're just seeing a bed, nothing else, feel free to regenerate the photo until you get an outcome that you like. We're also always working to improve the ability and stylistic capabilities of the virtual staging feature!
If you'd like to automate the insertion of fires in every fireplace, go to AutoHDR.com/account and toggle on the automatic fireplace insertion.
You have another option which is using the 'AutoFill' feature to do it on an individual photo level. To do that, just mask where you want the flame in the fireplace, then prompt "fire" and click "Add". That will generate a fire in the masked region on that photo.
Yes! You can upload as many different types of shots or numbers of brackets across different angles as you would like. Auto HDR will detect how many exposures are uploaded for each angle and use them to edit the photos. You do not need to do any manual sorting, just drop them in straight from your SD card. We'll take care of the rest.
To make your photos brighter, we recommend shooting at least three brackets with the exposure bracketing settings at \+/- 2 EV. Make sure that your middle bracket is properly exposed, and all three exposures are not too dark. Graininess stems from high ISO. For real estate photography, ideally shoot between 200 and 400 ISO.
If an edit fails, we will send you a notification email \- if you don't see it \- it may have landed in a spam folder. Our developers are also notified of all failures and will try to re-run it so the photo shoot succeeds. If they cannot, they will leave notes in the listing and send you an email letting you know the cause of failure and how to fix it.
If you want to add or edit a pin on a photo:
Deduplication is a feature that we have. When turned on, it will detect duplicate angles across your photo shoot and only keep the best angle. Your duplicate images are not edited, and it saves you the time from manually sorting them and deleting them.
You cannot switch a style after the editing is done or retrospectively make changes like turning on automatic fire insertion. However, you can change the setting you want to modify and then re-upload the listing and have it edited again. Only download the new version with the settings that you wanted.
If somebody uses your referral code at checkout, you will be paid out a 50% commission right away in credits to your account!
We also have an affiliate program where you can earn actual money as a revenue share. Feel free to learn more and apply at AutoHDR.com/income
If you want to re-arrange the images after editing, you can click and drag the photos to move them in the sequence. When you download the photos, the files will be re-named to retain this ordering!
If you have a glare you want to remove, the best tool is the AI Re-Edit prompt. Be specific about what you want — for example: "Remove the glare from the cabinet without altering any other features of the image." AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit per use, and you can regenerate if the result isn't quite right.
Just for reference — flagging an image in the web app sends feedback to the development team so they can track issues and improve the AI. It doesn't trigger a manual review or correction of your specific photo.
To fix this yourself, you have a couple of options:
If the results from our tools aren't resolving the issue, reach out at delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and photos and a member of our team will take a look.
TV screen blackout and custom TV images are available on the professional plan or above. Please upgrade to that plan to unlock it. Alternatively, open the photo and use AI Re-Edit with the prompt "black out the TV screen" — this is the most reliable method for manual TV blackouts.
Hi, there are two options you can use to fix this quickly:
Hey, absolutely you can use the auto fill tool to circle the area of the fireplace you want to add fire in, and then prompt it. It will only manipulate that section of the image and add a flame. Otherwise, you can use the AI re-edit feature; however, it applies a less specific edit than when you just use auto fill, which takes a mask.
You can make these adjustments using the sliders in the Basic Adjustments tab — brightness, shadows, highlights, contrast, and per-color adjustments. For anything that's easier to describe than to dial in with sliders, the AI Re-Edit tool is a good fit: it's granular, accurate, and can accept a reference photo to edit toward a specific style.
To virtually stage your images, use the virtual staging button in the UI. You can regenerate as many times as you like until you get a style or placement that works.
For a TV screen that needs blacking out, the most reliable method is AI Re-Edit — open the photo, click AI Re-Edit, and prompt: "black out the TV screen." This consistently produces a clean black screen result.
For the blown-out window, use the AI Re-Edit tool with a prompt like "fix the overexposed window, bring in a natural outdoor view" — or if the window bracket data is there, re-uploading the shoot with sky replacement enabled will pull in the view automatically.
If you go to the Basic Adjustments tab and then you scroll down to the Color options, you can select the green circle to be able to manipulate the greens of the photo specifically. Then you can adjust the hue and saturation to get it just to the level of green tint that you would like.
If you find you are consistently doing this, you can save it as a profile on your account. You can then set it as your default exterior post-processing profile, which would run on every single photo shoot, or you can do it in the editing gallery by selecting that profile from your drop-downs, selecting all of your exterior photos or the ones you just want to apply it to, and then applying that profile. This will save a lot of time and automate the workflow.
Hey, if you want to bring the mountain views in clearly, I recommend:
If you find you are consistently doing this, you can save it as a profile on your account. You can then set it as your default exterior post-processing profile, which would run on every single photo shoot, or you can do it in the editing gallery by selecting that profile from your drop-downs, selecting all of your exterior photos or the ones you just want to apply it to, and then applying that profile. This will save a lot of time and automate the workflow.
If you want a lighter window view, the AutoHDR Classic model works well. If you want a deeper window pull, the AutoHDR Lisa model has more intense window pulls and greater pop.
If this is a one-off image, you can use the AI re-edit tool to prompt what you would like to see in the photo, or you can use the basic adjustment sliders to be able to manipulate things such as the highlights or shadows. Even if you want the granularity of manipulating the color blue of the sky, you can select the blue color specifically, then adjust the hue and saturation of it.
All plans include full access to our post-processing tools — everything Lightroom has for adjustments is built right into the platform, plus AI-powered tools like AI Re-Edit, AutoFill, AutoRemove, and virtual staging. This lets you fix issues immediately without waiting.
For photo quality issues that our tools can't resolve, our team can step in. If something isn't fixable with the editing tools in the platform, reach out at delivery@autohdr.com with your shoot link and a description of the issue — we'll review it and get it corrected. We never want a quality problem to prevent you from delivering photos on time.
Photos coming back upside down or rotated incorrectly isn't normal — that's a processing error on our end, not something you did wrong.
Email delivery@autohdr.com with your shoot link and point out which photos are affected. Our team will get them corrected and back to you so you're not held up on delivery.
Yes — you can customize your virtual twilight before processing by selecting from different styles and intensity levels. These options appear when you generate the twilight from your listing gallery.
If the result isn't quite right after processing, use the Regenerate button to get a different version, or open AI Re-Edit and describe the adjustment you want (e.g., "warmer light tone," "less intense sky color").
When staging a small room, the AI sometimes has to regenerate a portion of the floor or walls to make the furniture placement look natural — this is expected behavior, not an error. If the flooring change isn't acceptable, use the Regenerate button to get a different result. Most variations will keep finishes intact.
If you need the original floor finish preserved precisely, the AI Re-Edit tool can help: describe what you want kept (e.g., "keep the original hardwood floor, only add furniture") and the model will attempt to constrain changes to furniture only.
Even with deduplication disabled, very visually similar shots (like a door open vs. door closed from the same angle) may get grouped together — this is based on visual similarity detection, which is separate from the deduplication setting.
If a bracket set gets incorrectly merged, the fix is to upload that angle separately as its own shoot. Processing it in isolation prevents it from being grouped with the other angle.
If your credits disappeared unexpectedly, the most common cause is being logged into a different account than the one with your credits. Check that you're signed into the correct email at autohdr.com/account.
Other common cause: if you cancelled or downgraded a plan, credits tied to that plan are removed at the end of the billing cycle.
If neither of those explains it, contact us at delivery@autohdr.com with your account email and we'll review the credit history.
Pronounced lens distortion on side walls usually means your camera + lens combination isn't in our database yet. Email delivery@autohdr.com with your shoot link and the exact camera + lens model — we'll add the profile so future shoots process correctly, and we'll correct the affected photos so you're not held up on delivery.
A repeating or grid-like pattern in the sky is usually a resolution artifact — try downloading the full-resolution file and viewing it at actual size. The pattern often disappears when not viewed at a zoom level that happens to align with the image grid.
If the pattern is visible in the full-resolution download, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and the affected photo — we'll take a look and get it corrected.
Sky bleed — where the sky color bleeds into the roof or structure of a building — is a known edge case in exterior shots. If you see it, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and we'll get it corrected so you're not held up on delivery.
To reduce the chance of sky bleed on future shoots: make sure your darkest bracket still captures detail in the overexposed sky area. Fully blown-out bright brackets give the AI less to work with at the sky-structure boundary.
When shooting, try to make sure that your brackets aren't all over-exposed. In the dark bracket, at a minimum, we need to be able to see detail in the super over-exposed portions. If you get a weird sky blend into the roof, send us the image at delivery@autohdr.com and we'll get it fixed so you can deliver to your client on time.
This is a sky replacement bleed — the AI incorrectly extended sky replacement into the ceiling area. Email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and the specific photo and we'll correct it.
To avoid it on future shoots: sky replacement uses edge detection to find the sky boundary. Very bright ceilings near windows can occasionally get caught. You can also toggle sky replacement off per-photo after delivery if needed.
Yes — AutoHDR can handle high volumes including 15,000+ images per month. We have several built-in styles you can choose from at upload to match your preferred output look. For enterprise volumes, see current plan options at autohdr.com/pricing or book a demo at https://meetings-na2.hubspot.com/matt-gia/book-a-demo to discuss a custom setup.
If sky replacement has removed or altered an important element (like a water tower, rooftop feature, or architectural detail), the quickest fix is to disable sky replacement for that specific photo. You can toggle it off at upload, or reprocess with sky replacement unchecked.
If the photo has already been processed and the element is missing, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and the specific photo — we'll get it corrected.
If it was an extremely large photo shoot, it's possible your download timed out. The credits will have been deducted upon hitting the download button. But if you go to download them again since they are already considered downloaded, you will not lose any additional credits. You can try downloading it in smaller chunks. For example, download the first half, then download the second half to avoid the download timing out. Once you download any photo, it's already considered downloaded. Once there's a checkmark on the thumbnail in the listing gallery, you can continue downloading it as many times as you want and you won't lose credits.
This can occasionally happen when the input brackets make it ambiguous whether a wall is a very light color or simply white — the AI does its best with the data in the photos. For example, in certain lighting conditions, a light yellow wall can look indistinguishable from white.
If this happens on one of your photos, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and the affected photo and we'll get it corrected promptly.
Blurring or artefacts are usually caused by one of two things:
If your team member can't use your credits or see your listings, it's likely because they haven't joined your team yet. Once you add a team member, that team member needs to log into their account and go to autohdr.com/account. Scroll to the bottom and in the bottom right corner, they will be able to choose if they want to use their personal account or the team account. There they can select team account and then they will be able to access your shared team account, viewing all shared listings and accessing the shared credit pool.
If you have corrupted files, the most likely cause is uploading a newer RAW file format that we haven't seen before. An easy fix is converting these to JPEG and then re-uploading.
If something looks very washed out, it's possible a bright-only or dark-only bracket was edited as a single exposure. Check that all three brackets for that angle are uploaded. If you see a duplicate of the same angle, the brackets may not have been grouped together — try uploading just the inputs for that angle as a new shoot.
If the area looks faded due to movement (e.g. trees in the wind), try uploading just the mid-level exposure bracket from that bracket set. With no movement between shots, the AI will produce a cleaner result.
A pink tone is not from the AI editing — it means a RAW file was corrupted during the sensor data conversion step before editing. To fix it, convert the affected files to JPEG and re-upload.
If sky color is bleeding into white siding, it's usually caused by all brackets being overexposed — when the brightest areas have no pixel data, the model can infer sky where the siding actually is. To avoid this on future shoots, make sure your metering is neutral so at least one bracket retains detail in the bright areas.
If it's already happened on a photo, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and affected photo — we'll get it corrected.
Images are grouped by visual similarity, so very similar-looking angles may get merged into one. To prevent this, upload similar-looking angles as separate shoots. Processing them in isolation ensures each angle is treated as distinct and edited correctly.
A strange texture in vegetation is usually caused by a grouping issue where a single dark-only or bright-only bracket was edited by itself. Without the full bracket set, the model has limited data to work with and the result can look unnatural.
Make sure all three exposures for that angle are uploaded and re-upload them. With the full bracket set, the result should be clean.
CR3 files coming back pink means the RAW sensor data was corrupted during conversion — this typically happens with newer camera models whose RAW format hasn't been fully configured yet.
To fix it now: convert the images to JPEG and re-upload. JPEG uploads process correctly regardless of camera model.
To get CR3 support added: email delivery@autohdr.com with your shoot link and camera model — we'll add compatibility so future shoots process correctly from RAW.
CR2 files should upload and process correctly as-is. If you run into issues (corrupted output, pink tones), convert to JPEG and re-upload — this bypasses any RAW format compatibility issues.
If it keeps happening, email delivery@autohdr.com with your shoot link so we can confirm compatibility for your specific camera's CR2 format.
Ghosting occurs when a subject moves across multiple brackets (e.g. trees in the wind, a ceiling fan). Because the brackets are captured over a couple of seconds, movement between them shows up as a ghost outline.
To fix it: upload just the single mid-exposure bracket from that bracket set as its own shoot. With only one frame, there's no cross-bracket movement and the result will look sharp and still.
Yes — use the Regenerate button to generate a new version. You can regenerate as many times as you need until you get a result you're happy with.
If the photo is consistently unusable after multiple regenerations, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and the specific photo — we'll review it and get it corrected.
Our core editing models won't hallucinate or remove details from a standard edit. However, virtual twilight fully transforms the image from day to night — during that transformation, very small details can occasionally be reimagined or lost.
If this happens, use the Regenerate option to try a fresh version — most regenerations will preserve the detail correctly.
If you're getting a "failed to save" error after making adjustments, try these steps:
If the error persists, email delivery@autohdr.com with the listing link, the specific photo, and the adjustment you were trying to make — we'll investigate.
AutoHDR automatically removes cameras and camera equipment from every photo as part of standard processing. In rare cases, the model produces a false positive — mistaking a similar-looking object (like a lamp with a tripod-style stand) for a camera and removing it.
If this happened on one of your photos, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and the specific photo. Our team will review it, fix the image, and flag it to the development team to improve accuracy going forward.
Yes — both are fully supported with AI Re-Edit!
AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit each. If the result isn't quite right, you can use the regenerate button to try again.
Note: If fire in fireplace is enabled via Style Settings (auto-fire toggle, Professional+ only), it applies automatically during processing and does not deduct credits. Credits only apply when using AI Re-Edit manually.
The download order is based on your camera's file naming sequence, not the order you've arranged in the gallery. To control the order your photos come out in the zip, you'd need to adjust the file naming convention in your camera settings so the shots are numbered in the sequence you want before you upload.
The gallery reorder is great for reviewing and presenting your photos on the AutoHDR site, but it won't change how the files are ordered in the download.
Your photos are full resolution - DPI isn't something AutoHDR controls or embeds as a setting during processing.
DPI (dots per inch) is just a metadata tag in the file. It doesn't affect pixel dimensions or image quality in any way. A photo that says "72 DPI" and one that says "300 DPI" are identical images if the pixel count is the same - the DPI number only matters when a printer or software uses it to calculate physical print size.
If you need 300 DPI for print delivery, set that on export in Lightroom, Photoshop, or your delivery tool. It takes one click and doesn't change the actual image data. Your AutoHDR photos have the full pixel resolution from your camera - they're print-ready as-is once you set the DPI tag on export.
This is a Lightroom rendering issue, not a problem with the file. By default, Lightroom can apply its own develop settings on import that override the color profile embedded in your AutoHDR photo, making it look flat.
Two things to fix:
1. Set camera raw rendering to "Embedded & Sidecar." In Lightroom, go to Preferences → Performance and set Camera Raw rendering to "Embedded & Sidecar." This tells Lightroom to use the color profile embedded in the file rather than generating its own preview from scratch.
2. Remove any default import preset. If you have a develop preset set to apply automatically on import (Preferences → Import → Apply During Import), that preset is overriding the embedded edit. Set it to "None" so your AutoHDR edits come through clean.
After making those changes, re-import the photos - they should match what you saw in AutoHDR.
Yes - AutoHDR will detect and remove people from reflections regardless of whether the shot was taken handheld or on a tripod. As long as you're visible in a reflective surface (mirror, window, or similar), our AI will identify and remove you automatically as part of standard processing. Nothing special needed on your end.
Your style profile is set in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings. If your selected profile isn't being applied to your shoots, here's what's likely happening:
Selecting a profile in Style Settings only changes which profile you're viewing - it doesn't make it the default for new shoots. To set your custom profile as the active default applied to your uploads:
That profile will then be applied to all your future shoots automatically.
If you've done that and your shoots still aren't applying the profile, send us your account email and we'll check what's happening on our end.
If your photo was originally edited through AutoHDR, you can apply our AI tools (staging, declutter, twilights, AI Re-Edit, etc.) directly from your listing gallery - open the photo, pick the tool, no re-uploading needed.
If your photo was edited somewhere else, AutoHDR doesn't currently have a self-serve way to apply just the AI tools without our editing pipeline running on the photo. If you've got a specific situation you're trying to solve, reach out and let us know what you're working on - we'll take a look and see what's possible for your case.
Already uploaded and your photo got re-processed? Send us the shoot link and we'll see if your original is recoverable.
Two situations:
Watermarks on the gallery preview - expected on the Free plan. The watermark only appears on the preview view in your listing gallery; the file you actually download is always clean regardless of plan. Download a photo and open it on your computer to confirm.
Watermark embedded in the downloaded file itself - that shouldn't happen on any plan. Downloads are always clean. If your actual downloaded file has a watermark in it, that's a bug - let us know which specific photo and we'll look into it.
A few quick things to check:
If browser upload continues to fail, here are two faster alternatives:
01-RAW-Photos folder and triggers processing automatically. Go to autohdr.com/account → Connect with Dropbox to get started, or book a setup call: https://knowledge.autohdr.com/get-startedIf the issue persists and you'd like our team to investigate, please share the following so we can pass it along to our developers:
The more detail you can provide, the faster our team can track it down.
Lens distortion on an edited photo means our system didn't have the correction profile for your specific camera + lens combination yet.
Self-serve fix: convert your RAW files to JPEG using Lightroom or Capture One with Lens Corrections enabled during export (or your camera manufacturer's software with lens correction turned on). The exported JPEGs will have lens correction baked in - AutoHDR processes them as-is and the distortion stays fixed.
Going forward: shooting JPEG directly from your camera accomplishes the same thing, as long as your camera has in-body lens correction enabled for that lens.
We currently return photos in the same dimensions and format you uploaded them - there's no built-in option to download at a smaller file size directly from AutoHDR.
The 2MB cap is a common MLS requirement, so the quickest workaround is to compress the downloaded JPEGs after the fact using a free tool like Squoosh (browser-based, no install needed) or TinyJPEG - you can typically get files under 2MB without any visible quality loss at real estate photo dimensions.
If downloadable size options would be useful for your workflow, you can submit a feature request at autohdr.canny.io - the product team reviews those regularly.
Once you're happy with your AI Re-Edit, downloading it is the same as downloading any other photo. Open your listing at autohdr.com/listings, make sure you're viewing the re-edited version (you'll see both the original and the re-edit in your gallery as a stack), and click the download icon. The version you're currently viewing is what downloads.
If you want to download the whole shoot, use the Download All button at the top of the gallery - both the originals and any re-edited variants will be included in the zip.
To tilt/rotate a photo, open it in your listing at autohdr.com/listings, click the photo, then go to the Basic Adjustments tab in the editor. You'll find Crop & Tilt there - it's applied per image, one at a time (no bulk option). Use the rotation control to adjust the tilt until it looks straight, then hit Apply.
Lens correction is applied automatically to RAW uploads - if your lens is in our database, distortion gets corrected during the RAW conversion step before the AI touches the photo. No action needed on your end.
JPEG uploads: lens correction is skipped on JPEGs at our end, so the JPEG itself needs to already have lens correction applied. Make sure your camera's in-body lens correction is enabled when shooting JPEG, or apply it during export from Lightroom (under "Lens Corrections" → "Enable Profile Corrections") or Capture One.
If your specific lens isn't in our database yet: convert your RAW files to JPEG via Lightroom or Capture One with Lens Corrections enabled during export, then re-upload. The exported JPEGs will have correction already applied.
Yes - go to autohdr.com/account and toggle off "Perspective Correction." Every shoot you upload going forward will skip it.
If you want a past shoot redone without perspective correction, just re-upload the shoot after toggling it off - re-runs are free since you only pay for what you download.
Perspective correction works best on standard interior and exterior photos shot with a wide-angle lens. For drone shots, our system detects them as aerial/overhead angles and intentionally skips automatic perspective correction - applying it to drone photos would often distort them in ways that look unnatural.
Manual perspective correction is not available as a standalone tool. However, if a drone photo needs straightening, Crop & Tilt is the closest alternative - open the photo in your listing gallery, go to the Basic Adjustments tab, and use the Crop & Tilt rotation control to manually adjust. Note: it's applied per image, one at a time - there's no bulk option. It won't warp verticals like full perspective correction does, but it handles rotation and tilt well.
Two parts to your question - yes on TVs, but custom fire images aren't something we currently support.
For TV screens: the TV Screen Replacement feature (blacked out, custom image, or preset images — Beach, Mountain, or City) is available on the Professional plan or higher. If you're on Professional+, go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings, find the TV Screen Replacement option, and set your preference. Once configured, it applies automatically to every TV in your future shoots.
If you're on Standard, Basic, or Free, the workaround is AutoFill — open each photo, click AutoFill, mask the TV screen, and type what you want (e.g. "blacked out screen" or "beach scene on TV"). AutoFill is free on any plan, but it's per photo rather than automatic.
For fires: the auto-fire toggle is available on the Professional plan or higher. If you're on Standard, Basic, or Free, the fire toggle won't be available in Style Settings. The feature adds an AI-generated fire to fireplaces - we don't currently support uploading your own custom fire image. If you're on a qualifying plan, you can enable or disable it in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings, but the look of the fire itself isn't customizable.
If you're not on a plan with the fire toggle, the workaround is AutoFill - open the photo, click AutoFill, mask the fireplace, and prompt "natural flames in fireplace." AutoFill is free and works on any plan.
If having custom fire images would be useful for your workflow, you can submit a feature request at autohdr.canny.io - our product team reviews customer requests there.
A shoot processing for 12 hours isn't normal - something has likely gone wrong. Our developers are automatically notified of any stalled or failed shoot and will rerun it.
While you wait: check autohdr.com/listings for a status update. If the shoot shows a failed status, it's already been flagged and is being rerun. If there's no listing at all, the upload may not have completed - re-uploading is safe and you only pay when you download.
Drone shots and interiors process differently - drone shots are usually single exposures while interiors use 3+ bracketed frames, which takes more compute per photo. Most shoots finish within 5-10 minutes, but bracketed interiors can take a bit longer.
Check autohdr.com/listings for a progress bar. If you see a failed status, our developers are automatically notified and will rerun it - no action needed on your end.
If you've uploaded and don't see anything in your listings, a few things to check:
If you've checked all of that and they're still not showing, send us the email address on your account and we'll track them down.
A few things to try before giving up:
The + button inside your listing gallery is designed for already-processed images — things like applying adjustments, AI Re-Edit, additional services, or other add-ons to photos that have already been through our editing pipeline. It's not connected to the main processing pipeline, so unprocessed RAW or bracketed files uploaded that way won't be converted, grouped, or blended.
To get your unprocessed brackets edited, upload them as a new job through one of these methods:
Let me know which upload method works best for you and I can walk you through it!
A few things to check:
Going forward, shooting JPEG avoids all of this - faster uploads, faster processing, same output quality.
An hour is longer than normal - most shoots finish in 5-10 minutes. Check autohdr.com/listings:
If "Original File Name" is set in your account but downloads are still coming back with the job name: toggle the setting off, save, then back on, save again, and re-download. This often resets a stuck setting.
If it's still not working after the toggle, check that you're on the correct account - if you have multiple accounts or a team account, style settings are per-account and may not be set the same everywhere.
If your shoot looks stuck:
If all files went up in a single upload session, AutoHDR creates one listing per upload. Each shoot needs its own upload session - drop one property's files in, click upload, wait for it to start processing, then upload the next one.
If the combined listing already processed and you need it split: re-upload each property's files as separate sessions. Re-runs are free - you only pay when you download.
Sorry to hear you're running into this! A few things that can help:
Could you also share the exact error message you're seeing and what browser you're using? That helps us investigate. I'm looping in a team member to follow up with you directly.
A few things to check:
AutoHDR applies lens correction automatically - but only for lenses in our database. If your lens isn't recognized yet, the correction won't apply.
Self-serve workaround: convert your RAW files to JPEG using Lightroom or Capture One with Lens Corrections enabled during export, then re-upload. The exported JPEGs will have lens correction baked in, and AutoHDR processes them as-is - distortion stays fixed regardless of whether your lens is in our database.
Going forward: shooting JPEG directly with your camera's in-body lens correction enabled accomplishes the same thing, as long as your camera supports a profile for that lens.
If your adjustments aren't applying to the download:
Try these in order:
Yes — there's an automatic batch option through your account settings. TV Screen Replacement is available on the Professional plan or higher. Go to autohdr.com/account → TV Screen Replacement, toggle it on, and set your preference (blacked out, custom image, or one of the preset options — Beach, Mountain, or City). It'll automatically apply to every TV detected across all your future shoots.
If you're not on a Professional+ plan, the best workaround per photo is AI Re-Edit — open the photo, click AI Re-Edit, and prompt "black out the TV screen." This tends to produce the cleanest result. Note: AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit per use.
If you'd prefer a free option, AutoFill works too — mask the TV screen and prompt "blacked out screen." Results may be slightly less consistent than AI Re-Edit but it's always free.
AI Re-Edit isn't the tool for virtual staging - it's designed for modifying existing elements in a photo, not adding furniture or entire room setups. AutoHDR has a dedicated Virtual Staging feature for that.
To use it: open a photo in your gallery and click the Virtual Staging button. Virtual staging works in pairs - you can stage up to 2 photos at a time within the staging tool itself. It costs 5 credits per photo. Note: Bulk Edit does not support virtual staging.
Distortion comes from two sources - try them in this order:
Perspective correction (cropping or wide-angle warping) - go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings, toggle Perspective Correction off, then re-upload. Re-runs are free - you only pay when you download.
Lens distortion (curved walls / barrel) - if toggling perspective correction doesn't help, your lens profile isn't in our database yet. Convert your RAW files to JPEG using Lightroom or Capture One with Lens Corrections enabled during export, then re-upload. The exported JPEGs will have correction already applied - bypassing our database entirely.
Our lens database gets updated as new lenses are identified. If your lens isn't in it yet, you have two options:
Self-serve workaround: Convert your RAW files to JPEG using Lightroom or Capture One with Lens Corrections enabled during export, then re-upload. The exported JPEGs will have correction baked in, and AutoHDR processes them as-is - distortion stays fixed regardless of whether your lens is in our database. Going forward, shooting JPEG directly works the same way as long as your camera has in-body lens correction enabled for that lens.
Get your lens added: Email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link (or order ID) and the exact camera + lens model you're using. We'll get the profile added so future shoots process correctly automatically.
Note: this is specifically for lens distortion (curved walls, barrel from the lens itself). For perspective issues like vertical lines being warped, that's a different feature - toggle Perspective Correction in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings.
The auto-fire doesn't have size or intensity controls. The cleanest fix is:
If you want to keep auto-fire on for future shoots but just fix this one: re-upload with Fire toggled off, use AutoFill on the specific photos you want fire on, then toggle Fire back on in Style Settings.
Two different TV tools - make sure you're using the right one:
If the TV is still appearing on a different photo than the one you masked, try refreshing the page and re-opening the specific photo before drawing your mask.
AutoFill is a free generative AI tool that lets you paint over an area of a photo and have the AI add something new based on a text prompt. It's designed for adding or replacing content in a masked area - for removing things, use the separate AutoRemove tool.
To use it: open a photo in your listing gallery, click AutoFill, draw a mask over the area you want to change, type what you want added (e.g., "blacked out TV screen," "hardwood floor," "flower bouquet"), and click Add Item.
Good uses:
AutoFill is completely free - no credits required.
To stage a photo, go to autohdr.com/listings and open the shoot. Click the photo you want to stage, then click the Staging button. From there you can remove existing furniture, choose a room type, pick a style, and let the AI furnish the space.
Virtual staging works in pairs of 2 - you can stage up to 2 photos at a time using the staging tool directly. Bulk Edit does not support virtual staging, so you can't batch a whole shoot at once. For a shoot with many rooms, stage them 2 at a time.
Each staging conversion costs 5 credits per photo. Once a photo has been staged, you can use the loop icon over the Staging button to regenerate with a different room type or style and iterate until the result looks right.
To change the pin on an already-edited photo, you don't need to re-upload. Open the listing in AutoHDR.com/listings, click the photo, then look for the pin icon in the toolbar at the bottom of the image editor. Click it to activate the pin tool - you can move the existing pin by clicking and dragging, resize it using the scroll wheel or by pinching on your trackpad, or remove it by clicking it again. Hit Save when done.
To use a custom pin (like your logo), go to AutoHDR.com/account and scroll down until you see the "Custom Pin" upload - it's just above the "Save Changes" button. Upload your image there and it'll apply to any photo going forward.
If your listings aren't showing up on your dashboard, the most common reason is that you're logged into a different account than the one you uploaded from - this happens more often than you'd think if you have multiple emails.
First, check that you're signed in with the correct Google account. Then head to AutoHDR.com/listings to see if anything shows up there. If you uploaded recently, the shoot may still be processing - you'll see a progress bar on any active jobs.
If you're part of a team account, you may also need to switch into the team view: go to AutoHDR.com/account, scroll to the bottom, and click "Access Team Account" to see shared listings.
Still nothing? Send us the email you uploaded from and we'll track it down.
If you uploaded pictures, but you don't see that listing created in AutoHDR.com/listings, it's possible that you created the listing in a different account or we did not receive the files. If there is no photo shoot in the listings page, it means that it's not been received or is not processing for that account which you are logged into. You only pay for what you download, so feel free to go ahead and re-upload the photo shoot in this account.
Are you trying to upload photos on the main home page or within your listing gallery? Please let me know what you're seeing and what issue you're having. I will help you fix it quickly. There is likely an easy solution. Thanks
There's no maximum. Upload as many as you'd like.
If you want to upload an entire photo shoot, just highlight all of the images or if you're in a folder, press Ctrl+A to select all of them. Then you can upload them directly from your folder on your computer or just drag and drop them all into our upload box.
If you want to upload multiple photo shoots at once, you can open multiple tabs and kick off a bunch of different photo shoots at once from different tabs on the autohdr.com website.
Your image might be slightly cropped in because the model performs perspective correction, which will warp the image to make it have straight verticals. If you do not want this, de-select "Perspective Correction" when uploading your photo shoot.
Your order could be taking longer than usual because of extremely large raw files. Don't worry if your shoot fails for any reason - our developers will be notified, and we'll see what happened. They will rerun it and make sure it's processed successfully. If for any reason it cannot be, we will reach out and let you know why and how to process it successfully.
TV Screen Replacement is available on the Professional plan or higher. If you're on Professional+, you can enable it in autohdr.com/account — options include automatically blacking out TV screens, uploading a custom image, or choosing from three preset scenes (Beach, Mountain, or City).
If you're not on a Professional+ plan, the free workaround is AutoFill — mask the TV in any photo and prompt "blacked out screen" or describe the image you want.
Yes, when you're uploading the photoshoot, de-select the sky replacement option. You can also enable this by default for all of your photoshoots by going to autoHDR.com/account and disabling it in your style settings.
When you're uploading a photo shoot, you can select the Twilight model. This is great for photo shoots that were shot at twilight or in the evening, and it will add a nice sunset and evening vibe to your photo shoot.
Nope, you can upload as large of files and as many as you'd like!
Hey - there's no file size limit!
We accept all file types and sizes. If you ever have a file type that you upload that comes back looking weird or corrupted, please let us know because there's new file formats coming out all the time and we may just not be compatible yet. If you see this and let us know, we can quickly update our software to be compatible with it. Just send us the photoshoot if that ever happens.
When you're drawing on the screen, the white filling is the mask. In the AutoRemove tool, whatever is in that masked region will be removed, and in the AutoFill tool, whatever is in that masked region will be where the AI model adds the new item. Make sure to only mask the region that you want to have manipulated, and nothing else.
Feel free to send them here directly as well as any comments you have. We love feedback!
There's also a flag when you're viewing your photos where you can flag them and type in a message, that will send the feedback directly to the development team in Slack so that they can see issues in real-time.
I'm assuming you meant to say "sample images". Yes, if you want to test out the software, you can do so for free. Just upload your photos on the home page - it costs nothing to upload images as you only pay for what you download. This way, you can try it out completely risk-free before committing to a plan.
Just go to AutoHDR.com and upload your photos into the box! That's it.
AutoHDR was built by real estate photographers for real estate photographers, so we made it as simple as possible.
JPG is the ideal file format. On your camera, use the largest JPG size available.
Yes, you can white-label it for your own software, or you can get a white-labeled upload box for your real estate photography team. If you want to learn more, just reach out to our sales team, and we'll let you know the options.
You can turn off Sky Replacement for a listing by deselecting Sky Replacement while uploading your photos. You can also turn it off for all of your photo shoots at autohdr.com/account.
Separately, if you just want to remove clouds from the interior windows, you can toggle the clouds off by clicking the Cloud button when viewing the image in your listing Gallery.
Auto HDR will automatically detect cameras and tripods in reflections and shadows and remove those. However, it will not actually remove the photographer or people from photos. We do this to ensure that people are not removed from images where they are intentionally there, like exterior photos of commercial buildings or any interiors that contain people in them. If you need to remove a person from the view, open the image in autohdr.com/listings, then click the Auto Remove tool. Circle the person and press Remove, and the person will be removed from the photo.
Hey, that's a rare error, and it means that the files were corrupted before even going into the AI model. The most likely cause for this was corrupted files being uploaded into the system or an incomplete upload. It's also possible that it's a raw file format that's new and we are not compatible with yet. You can try converting the images to JPEG first, then re-uploading. This will fix the corrupted outputs that are just a bunch of colored lines.
Yes! Upload a watermark on autohdr.com/account, using the custom pin feature, located just above the 'save changes' button. Then use the pin tool on each image in your listings page to apply and save it. That said, it's a per-photo manual step right now rather than something that fires automatically during processing. If automatic watermarking during upload is something you'd find useful, I can submit that as a feature request to our development team on your behalf.
By default, we do perspective correction to make sure your vertical lines are straight. If you want to disable that, de-select perspective correction when uploading the photo shoot.
As of August 2025, we just give you back the photos in the same dimensions you upload them. If you'd like to request the ability to download photos in different sizes, feel free to add a feature request here:
https://autohdr.canny.io/
As of August 2025, we just give you back the photos in the same dimensions you upload them. If you'd like to request the ability to download photos in different sizes, feel free to add a feature request here:
https://autohdr.canny.io/
TV Screen Replacement (including auto blackout, custom images, and preset scenes) requires the Professional plan or higher. If you're not on Professional+, the recommended workaround is AI Re-Edit — open the photo, click AI Re-Edit, and prompt "black out the TV screen." This tends to give the cleanest result. AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit per use. For a always-free option, AutoFill works too — mask the TV and prompt "blacked out screen."
Automatic TV Screen Blackout (and the full TV Screen Replacement feature) is available on Professional plans and higher. If you're on Professional+, enable it in autohdr.com/account — it'll automatically black out TV screens across all your future shoots.
If you're not on a Professional+ plan, the best per-photo workaround is AI Re-Edit — open the photo, click AI Re-Edit, and prompt "black out the TV screen." This tends to produce the cleanest result. AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit per use. For a fully free option, use AutoFill instead — mask the TV and prompt "blacked out screen."
Yes - we already have a drop pin feature built in. When viewing a photo in your listing gallery, click the pin icon in the toolbar to activate the pin tool. You can drag it to place it anywhere on the photo (great for marking house location on drone shots), and resize it using the scroll wheel on a mouse or by pinching on a trackpad. Hit Save when you're happy with placement. You can also upload a custom pin (like your logo) at autohdr.com/account - it's just above the "Save Changes" button.
If the color is not accurate, we highly recommend clicking View Inputs to see if your input images are representative of the accurate color. If they're not, then that would tell you why.
We recommend shooting three bracket, two EV, and keeping your bracket order as mid, then dark, then bright so that the auto white balance selects the most accurate lighting condition as its basis. Providing a flash exposure can help but is definitely not needed.
If you need to make a manual adjustment, there are two options:
Short answer: yes for RAW, no for JPEG. Here's the breakdown:
RAW files (.dng, .cr2, .nef, .arw, etc.) - we apply full lens corrections during the RAW-to-JPEG conversion step, including distortion and vignetting. We use RawTherapee with Lensfun profiles, and we also detect and respect any embedded lens-correction metadata (e.g., from Adobe DNG Converter). For most popular real estate lenses, this happens automatically without any action on your part.
JPEG files - we don't apply lens correction to JPEGs. The pipeline assumes your camera or your RAW converter already applied it before you exported the JPEG. If you're shooting JPEG straight out of camera, make sure your camera's in-body lens correction is turned on; if you're exporting JPEG from Lightroom / Capture One / etc., make sure lens correction is enabled in your export profile.
If you want lens correction handled for you, upload RAW. If you're already happy with your JPEG workflow and just want HDR + edits, JPEG works great too - just verify your distortion is corrected before upload.
If you ever see distortion in a delivered photo, send us the camera + lens model and a sample image and we'll take a look.
I'd love for you to book a call with our workflow and editing automation specialist so we can truly fix your issues from the root cause and help you achieve the amazing quality results, automation, and speed all of our other users are getting. We want you to have results that are better than a human editor, and I'm confident you can get those. Please book a call at this link: https://knowledge.autohdr.com/get-started
Yes - AutoHDR supports HEIC files from iPhone. They process through our pipeline the same way other formats do, and the AI produces the same quality results.
One note: HEIC files are larger and slower to process than JPEG since we have to convert them during the editing pipeline. If you want faster uploads and faster turnaround, you can switch your iPhone camera to JPEG mode (Settings → Camera → Formats → Most Compatible) - but it's a preference, not a requirement.
HEIC files should upload and process normally - they're a fully supported format. If yours are failing silently, that's not the typical behavior and points to something specific:
If the issue persists, please share the exact error you're seeing and your browser — I'll loop in a team member to investigate directly.
HEIC is supported, so converting before upload is a preference rather than a requirement. If you'd prefer to upload JPEG (for faster uploads or because you've had issues with HEIC), here are the simplest options:
iPhone - switch your camera to JPEG mode (best for future shoots): Settings → Camera → Formats → choose Most Compatible instead of High Efficiency. From that point forward, your iPhone captures JPEG instead of HEIC.
Mac - Photos app: select your HEIC photos, go to File → Export → Export Photos, and choose JPEG as the format. The exported JPEGs are ready to upload.
Lightroom Mobile / Lightroom Classic: import your HEIC files, then export with JPEG format selected.
Once converted, upload the JPEGs as you normally would.
The "Could not compute file hashes" error is a browser-side issue that happens before upload begins - your browser couldn't successfully read and process one of the files in your batch. A single file failing breaks the whole batch, even if the others would have uploaded fine.
A few things to try:
If you've tried all of that and still hit the error on every attempt, send us your account email and one of the affected files - we'll look into it.
No - you weren't charged anything. The hash error happens in your browser before the upload even reaches our servers, so no shoot was created and no credits were deducted. Credits are only charged when you download a finished photo.
You can safely retry as many times as you need - failed upload attempts never deduct credits.
Drone and aerial photos cost the same as interior shots - 1 credit per photo on first download. Whether your interiors are 3-bracket sets fused into one final image or your drone shots are single exposures, you're charged per delivered photo, not per input bracket. So a 30-photo shoot with 5 drone shots and 25 interior images is 30 credits to download.
Yes - Sky Replacement applies to drone and aerial shots by default, the same way it does for ground-level exteriors. If you're shooting over mountains, water, distant landscapes, or anything where the sky isn't a clean target, you may want to disable it.
Two ways to control it:
Per shoot: deselect Sky Replacement at upload when starting a new shoot - useful if you want it off for aerials but on for ground-level shots.
Globally: go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings and toggle Sky Replacement off. Applies to all future uploads until turned back on.
AutoHDR automatically detects drone and aerial shots and runs them through a dedicated aerial model - different from how interior shots are processed. So they're already getting different settings under the hood.
If they still look over-processed, the most common levers to dial back are the optional features that apply broadly:
Sky Replacement - often the biggest offender on aerials. Toggle off (per-shoot at upload, or globally in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings) to keep your original sky.
Perspective Correction - can crop or warp wide drone shots in ways that look unnatural. Same toggle path.
Declutter - can remove background elements you wanted preserved. Same toggle path.
If you want different settings for drones vs interiors, upload them as separate shoots - settings are applied per shoot. Toggle off the features you don't want for your drone shoot, leave them on for your interior shoot.
For specific drone photos that came back wrong, you can also use AI Re-Edit on each one with a prompt describing what to fix.
Either works - your call based on the situation:
Together with interiors - drop everything from the same property into one upload. The AI automatically detects which shots are aerials and runs them through the dedicated aerial model. Interiors and drone shots get processed correctly side by side.
Separately - upload drones as their own shoot if you want different settings (e.g., Sky Replacement off for drones, on for interiors). Settings are applied per shoot, so separate uploads give you separate control.
Most photographers upload everything together for convenience. Switch to separate uploads only when you want different settings or to avoid grouping issues.
AutoHDR groups photos using vision-based similarity rather than timestamps. If you have multiple drone shots of the same property from similar angles, the AI may group them as a bracket set and blend them - even when they aren't actually brackets.
To fix the current shoot: upload the drone shots as a separate shoot from the interiors. Then within that drone shoot, if specific shots are still being grouped together, upload them one at a time as individual shoots so they don't get merged.
For future shoots: shoot drone images from clearly distinct angles (different positions, different elevations, different framing) - that gives the AI enough difference to recognize them as separate scenes. If you intentionally want a 3-bracket aerial blend, that's also supported - just shoot 3 brackets of the same angle and upload them together.
A few settings work well for most shoots but can produce confusing results in specific scenarios. Knowing when to toggle them off helps:
Declutter - turn off if you want fixtures preserved. Declutter is opt-in (1 credit per photo when on) and removes items the AI identifies as clutter. It can be too aggressive on shots with statement lamps, chairs, or decor you want to keep. Toggle off in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings.
Sky Replacement - turn off for scenic aerials. Sky Replacement is on by default and works well for ground-level exteriors, but on aerials over mountains, water, or large landscape features, it can misidentify those as sky and replace them. Toggle off per shoot at upload or globally in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings.
Perspective Correction - turn off for wide-angle buildings. Straightens vertical lines but can crop or warp the edges of wide-angle exterior shots, sometimes cutting off rooftops. Toggle off in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings if you're shooting wide buildings or want to keep unstraightened verticals.
Deduplication - turn off if you intentionally shoot similar angles. Removes near-duplicate photos automatically, which is useful for cleaning up bracket sequences but a problem if you've intentionally captured "door open vs. door closed" variations or similar setups. Toggle off in autohdr.com/account so you don't lose those photos.
Auto Fire and Auto TV Screen Replacement — turn off if you don't want them. Both apply automatically during processing and bake into the output, so removing them after the fact requires re-uploading. Toggle off in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings before uploading if you don't want them on a particular shoot. Note: Both Auto Fire and Auto TV Screen Replacement are only available on Professional plan and higher — Standard, Basic, and Free plans won't have these toggles.
On the shooting side:
Virtual Staging gives you 5 room types and 3 furniture styles to choose from:
Room types: Living Room, Bedroom, Dining Room, Kitchen, Office.
Furniture styles: Modern (clean and contemporary), Scandinavian (minimalist and cozy), Coastal (relaxed beach-inspired).
You pick both when launching the staging tool - the AI generates furniture that matches the room type and style you selected.
Yes - Virtual Staging works on rooms with existing furniture, not just empty rooms. You have two options that can be used independently or together:
Remove existing furniture - clears the room before staging, so the AI can place new furniture without the old pieces interfering.
Add new furniture - places furniture in your selected style (Modern, Scandinavian, or Coastal) for the room type you choose.
Combine both for a full re-stage: the AI removes existing furniture and replaces it with the new style. Or use one or the other depending on what you need.
Virtual staging works in pairs of 2 - you can stage up to 2 photos at a time through the staging tool. Bulk Edit does not support virtual staging.
To stage a pair: open the listing in your gallery, click a photo and open the Staging tool, then select the second photo of the same room. Pick your room type and furniture style and the AI generates matching furniture across both angles.
If you have more than 2 angles of the same room, run them as pairs through the staging tool. Consistency holds within each pair, not across pairs.
Virtual Staging produces high-quality output that's used by real estate photographers and agents on listings every day, but whether it's appropriate for your MLS specifically depends on your local board's rules - most MLS boards require disclosure when photos are virtually staged (typically a label or a note on the listing). Some have stricter rules about what can be staged or how it must be presented.
Before using virtually staged photos on an MLS listing, check your local board's policy on virtual staging. AutoHDR's role is producing the staged image; how and where you use it (with appropriate disclosure) is up to you and your client.
Yes - Virtual Staging works on outdoor spaces too, not just interiors. Open the listing in your gallery, click the exterior or patio photo, and click the Staging option to add outdoor furniture in your choice of style. The same room type and style options apply. Results work best when the outdoor area is relatively clear and well-lit - heavily landscaped or complex scenes may produce less consistent output, in which case use the Regenerate button to try again.
Unrealistic shadows usually come from one of two things: how the brackets were captured, or how the AI blended them.
A few things to check first:
If none of those fix it, reply with the shoot link and the specific photo and we'll look into it.
ACTION TO TAKE:
This is AI auto-resolvable for general workflow guidance. If the customer provides a shoot link, escalate to the delivery team for review.
Color accuracy issues usually come from one of these causes:
If your sources look correct and the style is right but the color still isn't, use the color editor in Basic Adjustments to dial in the hue, saturation, or luminance on specific color channels. Or use the Repaint tool to select the exact hex color you want on a specific surface.
If you've tried the above and it's still off, send the shoot link with a note on what color looks wrong and we'll investigate.
ACTION TO TAKE:
This is AI auto-resolvable for general workflow guidance. Provide shoot link to delivery team if customer escalates with a specific example.
AI artifacts happen when the model encounters something complex in the scene that it didn't handle cleanly. Here's how to fix it:
For any of these, Regenerate (the loop icon) sometimes produces a clean result on a second pass - worth trying first before editing.
If the distortion is severe or covers a large portion of the photo, reply with the shoot link and the specific photo so we can look at what the model did and flag it if needed.
ACTION TO TAKE:
This is AI auto-resolvable for workflow guidance. If customer provides a shoot link with severe artifacts, escalate to delivery team and flag the specific image for engineering review.
When you switch to a newer camera model, there are two common reasons AutoHDR might not process your photos correctly:
If a photo comes back missing lens correction or looking wrong, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot (link or order ID) and the exact camera + lens you used. We'll add the profile so future shoots process correctly.
This happens when you use "Select All" and download directly without expanding the stack first. By default, Select All only grabs the original edited photos - it won't include Twilight, Staging, or other add-on edits that were applied afterward.
To download everything (originals + all add-on edits):
Expanding the stack reveals all the additional edited versions so they're included in the download.
If you've already downloaded and are missing files, just go back to the listing, expand the stack, and re-download.
If you selected the Twilight model at upload, your skies should come back as a sunset. If they came back as a normal daytime blue sky, the most likely cause is that the Twilight model wasn't applied to that specific shoot.
To fix it: re-upload the shoot and confirm the Twilight model is selected in the model dropdown before submitting. If you already processed it and want to convert the edited photos to twilight without re-uploading, select the photos in your listing gallery, hit Bulk Edit, and select the Twilight option.
If you're confident Twilight was selected and it still came back wrong, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link - we'll investigate.
Sorry to hear that - downgrades shouldn't actually reduce your credit balance, so something else is going on.
Most likely explanations:
Two ways to get this resolved:
Either way, if anything looks wrong on our end, we'll make it right.
Credits on an active subscription roll over month to month - unused credits don't disappear at renewal, they accumulate. So if you have 200 left and your plan renews with 500 more, you'll have 700.
A couple of situations where credits go away:
If you're worried about losing credits, the safest move is to stay on any paid plan rather than cancelling outright.
Credits can go down for reasons beyond just downloading your main edited photos. Common culprits:
You can check exactly where your credits went by going to autohdr.com/account and viewing your credit log. If something looks wrong after checking, reach out and we'll review it with you.
There are actually two different twilight features in AutoHDR, and they work differently:
Virtual Twilight (Listings page) - 5 credits + 1 to download
This converts a daytime photo into a fully lit evening shot. The 5 credits cover the AI processing to create the conversion. Then, like any edited photo in AutoHDR, it costs 1 credit to download. So total = 6 credits. You're not being charged twice - generation and download are just two separate steps.
Twilight Model (Upload page) - 5 credits
If you shot at night and uploaded those photos with the Twilight model selected, that's a 5-credit edit. This is for photos already shot at twilight that you want styled - not for converting a daytime photo.
Quick rule of thumb: Daytime → evening conversion = 6 credits total (5 to generate + 1 to download). Already-shot twilight photos processed on upload = 5 credits.
Each twilight generation costs 5 credits — this includes the initial generation and any subsequent regenerations. This is intended behavior on the updated website. If you'd like the best possible result before regenerating, try adjusting your prompt or using AI Re-Edit (1 credit) to refine the output without running a full new generation.
Head to autohdr.com/pricing and use the top-up bar to add credits to your account. You can add as many as you need - credits roll over month to month while your plan is active. If you're on a plan, your top-up rate will be lower than the pay-as-you-go rate.
Sorry about that! Twilights should only take about 30 seconds - if nothing's happening after that, something went wrong on our end. The good news: those credits shouldn't have been spent if the twilight didn't generate. I'll pull up your credit log on my end and refund any failed attempts directly.
To get it working: try refreshing the page and clicking the loop/regenerate icon over the Twilight button. If it still won't go, send us the shoot link and we'll get it sorted.
Really sorry to hear that - unfortunately once photos pass the 7-day window, they're archived and we're not able to recover them. We keep them for 7 days to give you time to download, but after that they're cleared to free up storage.
The good news: if you still have your original input brackets, you can re-upload them and we'll edit them again at no charge - you only pay for what you download, so re-running the shoot is free.
Going forward, downloading your shoots within 7 days is the best way to make sure you always have them. You'll also get an email when each shoot is ready.
Before requesting a reimbursement, check your credit log at autohdr.com/account - it shows exactly what was deducted and when. Most credit drops have a clear explanation in the log (downloads, twilight generations, AI Re-Edits, etc.).
Credits are only refundable when a feature failed to process entirely - not for results you don't like after it ran. If your log shows a deduction for something that genuinely didn't process (e.g. a twilight that never generated, or a download that failed mid-transfer), let us know which specific deduction looks wrong and we'll review it.
Two things to check:
Preview vs. download difference - the gallery preview is a compressed version for faster loading, so some detail difference is normal. If the difference is dramatic (wrong colors, major quality issues), first confirm you downloaded from your listing gallery and not from a local backup of your raw files - those look completely different from the edited output.
Credits used up - 1 credit = 1 photo, charged on first download. For a normal shoot that's expected. If the math feels off (more credits used than photos downloaded), check your credit log at autohdr.com/account - it shows every deduction.
Before using another credit, try the regenerate loop icon — it re-runs the same prompt and sometimes produces a better result.
If that doesn't help, refine your prompt. Vague prompts like "fix this" produce inconsistent results. Describe the specific outcome: "make the wall color match warm beige," "remove the shadow from the ceiling," "clean up the floor with uniform texture."
AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit each. If you noticed a re-edit didn't process at all (vs. just giving a result you didn't like), check your credit log at autohdr.com/account - if anything looks off, let us know.
At that volume, a plan will save you significantly compared to paying per credit without one. The exact per-credit cost varies by tier, and rates can change, so check the current pricing at autohdr.com/pricing to compare all plan options.
You're only charged once per photo. Credits are deducted the first time you download a photo, and re-downloading (or downloading a different version of the same photo) doesn't add any charges. So if you accidentally got the unedited version, downloading the edited version later won't double-charge you.
On AI Re-Edit pricing: each AI Re-Edit costs 1 credit.
On the TV/picture frame: that's auto TV screen replacement - an account-level setting where TVs detected in your photos automatically get their screens swapped during processing. The replacement is baked into the output during processing, so you can't toggle it off on a single delivered photo.
To stop it on future shoots: go to autohdr.com/account → Style Settings, find the TV Screen Replacement toggle, and turn it off.
To remove it from the current shoot: re-upload after toggling the setting off - re-runs are free since you only pay when you download. The reprocessed shoot will have the original TV screens. If you'd rather not re-upload, you can use AutoFill on the affected photos to paint over the replaced screens with something else (free, but per-photo manual work).
Grass replacement does cost extra - 1 credit per photo where the AI applies it. If you turn it on in your account settings, every exterior photo where the AI detects and replaces grass during your shoot's standard edit will deduct 1 additional credit on top of your normal edit credit. Same cost if you apply it manually in the gallery.
Once a photo has been grass-replaced, you can use the loop icon to regenerate and iterate on the result.
If keeping costs predictable matters more than always-on grass replacement, you can leave it off in your account settings and apply it selectively only on the photos where you want it.
You don't have to commit to a plan to use AutoHDR - you can pay per photo as you go. Top up credits at autohdr.com/pricing using the top-up bar.
When you're ready to scale up, plans offer a lower per-edit rate (rates vary by tier - see autohdr.com/pricing for current numbers), and credits roll over month to month so nothing goes to waste. You can also start with the free plan which includes 10 photos/month at no cost - great for testing while you're building your client base.
That popup means your account doesn't have enough credits to cover the download. Each photo costs 1 credit to download - so 10 photos = 10 credits needed.
To top up, head to autohdr.com/pricing and add credits using the top-up bar. The cost depends on whether you're on a plan (plan members get a lower per-photo rate). Once you've added credits, go back to your listings and the download should go through.
Once you've added credits, go back to your listings and the download should go through without any issues.
Auto Remove itself doesn't charge a credit to run — but when you apply it to a photo, that photo is automatically marked as downloaded, and 1 credit is deducted at that point. This applies to all plan types, including basic and free.
So the credit you're seeing isn't a charge for using the tool — it's the standard download credit that fires when the edited photo is ready and marked as delivered. If you apply Auto Remove to 3 photos, you'll see 3 credits deducted.
Yes! We have an affiliate program that unlocks major discounts in exchange for sharing short-form content about your work — no salesy posts, just templates that help you win clients and go viral.
Here's how it works:
We provide content templates so you know exactly what to post. It's a genuine win-win — you grow your brand while saving on editing.
Sign up and get started at: autohdr.com/earn
If you think you have two different subscriptions, could you just let me know what accounts those are under? I can help you consolidate it into one. Let me know what plan you're looking to be on and in which account you'd like it to be under.
Go to AutoHDR.com/account, scroll down to the subscription section, and there you'll be able to download your past invoices.
You do not need a Photoshop subscription to download from AutoHDR. Just select all your photos and click Download.
When you go to check out for a plan, you'll see an option to enter a referral code and get a discount on your first month. If you're not seeing it, let me know what you are seeing so I can help you troubleshoot.
If you made a referral and the person you referred used your code, you should have received an email confirming it was applied. If they haven't used your code yet, referral credits won't show up until they do. If you believe they signed up through your referral but you haven't received credit, reach out with any proof you have (email thread, screenshot, etc.) and we'll look into it and get it sorted.
It sounds like we didn't receive all of your photos from the shoot! You only pay for what you download, so could you please try uploading the missing images or the entire shoot again? Then you can just download the ones that were missing.
Interesting. Can you look at the input images you uploaded by clicking View Inputs to see if those have a green tint? If they do, that could be the source of the issue from a white balance issue. We always recommend looking at your inputs to validate if that's where the problem is coming from, because we can generally remove even the most excessive color casts.
If it's not, it could be from a raw file interpretation or conversion issue on our end. In which case you need to send a human on our team the photo shoot link so we can look at the raw file metadata and add in a better processing algorithm for that specific new type of raw file format. New ones come out often, and we just need to optimize our algorithms for interpreting the data.
If you downloaded photos, you'll see that there's a check mark on the images. You will not have your credits deducted unless they've actually been downloaded. In which case there should be a check mark. If you download those photos again, you'll not be charged twice. Any photo that has a check mark on it, you can risk-free download again without reducing credits. You only get charged upon initial download.
My first intuition around why you might be having bad results with two-exposure bracketing is because we do vision-based grouping. Sometimes the ambient bracket and the flash bracket look so different that they could be grouped as separate exposures and then edited both as a single exposure, which would look pretty atrocious. If you see two different images, it's because they weren't combined together, and that's an issue with our grouping algorithm, which we're always improving on.
Flash is definitely not required. If you try uploading bracketed HDR shots, you might be surprised how close to the flambient look we can replicate - while saving time on site and in your workflow. You only pay for what you download, so it's risk-free to try.
Many photographers who started with flambient have switched to HDR after seeing the results. If you're not happy with what comes back, reach out and we can take a look at your specific inputs and settings.
We charge one credit for each final edited photo, not for each input photo.
Our goal is that you never have to leave our software to conduct all of the post-processing you need, and you shouldn't have to open the images in Adobe. That being said, if they look different than how you're seeing them on your Mac or in the web UI, it could be how Adobe is interpreting the photo, causing it to look different. Again, I highly suggest you view it in the web app with AutoHDR and make any changes needed directly in there.
Our goal is that you don't have to leave the software to do everything you would do on your normal shoots. For example, instead of calling and ordering your photos, you only pay for what you download with AutoHDR. You can just upload your shoot, drag and drop the cards in the listing gallery to reorder them, delete the ones you don't want, and then download the photos or sync them to your scheduling software. That should save you a lot of time with manual upload and download.
Hey, we'd love to chat with you and get you set up with a demo and potentially a generous amount of free credits. Please book a time to chat with our team that's convenient for you here: https://meetings-na2.hubspot.com/matt-gia/book-a-demo
Sure thing! Go to AutoHDR.com/playbook to check out the video and download the playbook for free.
Yes — switching style profiles (e.g., from Aura to Iris) and regenerating costs 1 credit per photo. Then downloading the new version costs an additional 1 credit per photo — since it's the first download of that newly generated version.
So the full cost to switch styles and download is 2 credits per photo: 1 to regenerate + 1 to download.
If you want to switch styles on a full shoot, the more credit-efficient option is to change your default style profile in autohdr.com/account → Style Settings and re-upload the shoot. Re-uploads are free — you only pay when you download. That way you're paying 1 credit per photo instead of 2.
Yes — applying adjustments (brightness, contrast, white balance, vibrance, etc.) does cost credits. Each time you apply and save adjustments to a photo, a credit is deducted.
Credits are charged for: applying adjustments, downloading a photo, generating a Twilight, running Virtual Staging, applying Grass Replacement, Declutter, Upscale, or using AI Re-Edit (1 credit each).
If you applied adjustments to photos in your gallery, that's what triggered the credit deduction — it's by design, not an error.
No - deleting a photo from your gallery doesn't cost anything and doesn't affect your credit balance. Credits are only deducted when you download. You can freely delete photos you don't want without any charge. Once deleted, though, the edited version is gone and can't be recovered - so make sure to download first if you think you might want it later.
All AutoHDR pricing is in USD. If you're paying from Canada, your bank or credit card will convert at the current exchange rate, and you may see a small foreign transaction fee depending on your card. The amount shown at checkout on autohdr.com/pricing is always in US dollars.
There's no pause feature right now - your options are to stay active, downgrade, or cancel.
If you want to keep your credits and not pay full price during a slow period, the best move is to downgrade to a lower plan rather than cancelling. Your credits roll over on any active plan, so they'll be waiting for you when volume picks back up. Cancelling clears your credits at the end of the billing period.
The lowest-tier plan is the most affordable way to stay active without losing credits - see options at autohdr.com/pricing.
You can't renew early, but you can top up credits any time without waiting for your billing cycle to reset. Go to autohdr.com/pricing and use the top-up bar - credits are added to your account immediately and work the same as your plan credits.
Top-up rate depends on your plan tier (check autohdr.com/pricing for current rates). Your plan still renews on the normal schedule - the top-up credits are just extra on top.
Most "change my email" requests are actually about getting your company or new email to receive notifications without changing your login. For that, go to autohdr.com/account → Additional Emails, click Add Email, and enter the address. All your comms will go there; your original Google login stays the same.
If you specifically need to change your login email itself, that's a separate situation - usually only needed for account ownership changes or losing access to your original Google account. Reach out with your current email and the one you want to move to, and we'll figure out the right path for your situation. Note that login email changes can affect billing and other downstream things, so we handle these case-by-case rather than as a routine flip.
If you cancelled your subscription, you will not be charged for a renewal. To confirm your cancellation status, go to autohdr.com/account and scroll down to the subscription section — you'll see whether your plan is set to renew or cancel at the end of the billing period.
If it shows as cancelled and you were still charged, email delivery@autohdr.com with your account email and we'll review it right away.
We've recently identified an issue with our No Sky model that affects shoots with lower contrast, which can result in less visually appealing outcomes. As a temporary fix, we recommend reprocessing your shoot with Sky Replacement enabled — this should give you an immediate improvement in quality. Our team is actively working on an upgraded model, and by end of May 2026 the results will be on par with what you'd expect. We appreciate your patience!
AutoRemove should complete in 30 seconds or less. If it's hanging longer than that:
If your shoot failed or is stuck, our system automatically flags it for the engineering team. If we can't process it, we'll reach out to let you know why and what's needed to get it through.
You can check current shoot status at autohdr.com/listings.
This error means the shoot encountered an unexpected processing failure. Our system has already flagged it automatically. Common causes:
If we can't process it, we'll email you with details and next steps.
To report a problem with a shoot, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link — go to the listing and click "Copy Link" to get it. Include a description of what went wrong so we can investigate quickly.
If the shoot is marked as failed in your listings, our engineering team is already automatically notified and working on it. We'll rerun it if possible, and if we can't fix it, we'll reach out to let you know why.
If your adjustments aren't saving, try these steps:
If the issue persists, email delivery@autohdr.com with the listing link and the specific photo and adjustment you're trying to make — we'll investigate.
If AutoFill isn't producing a result, try these steps:
If it's consistently not working across multiple photos, email delivery@autohdr.com with a screenshot of what's happening — we'll report it to the dev team.
Pixelation in edited output is usually caused by one of:
If the issue persists on a full-resolution download, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and affected photo.
If your RAW files aren't processing correctly, it's likely a format compatibility issue — your specific camera model outputs a RAW format we haven't fully configured yet.
The quickest fix: convert to JPEG in Lightroom or Capture One and re-upload. JPEG uploads produce the same quality output and bypass the RAW conversion step entirely.
To get your RAW format added: email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and your exact camera model. We'll add compatibility so future shoots process correctly from RAW.
If the Auto Add feature isn't producing a result, try refreshing the page and regenerating the photo. If the issue continues, email delivery@autohdr.com with the listing link and a screenshot of what's happening — we'll look into it.
If your custom TV screen setting keeps reverting to blackout, the most common cause is a mismatch between the account setting and the processing trigger. Here's what to check:
If the problem persists after confirming your account settings, email delivery@autohdr.com with your account email and a link to a shoot where it didn't work — we'll debug the specific configuration.
If AutoRemove didn't work as expected, try these steps:
If neither option works, email delivery@autohdr.com with the shoot link and the specific photo — we'll investigate why AutoRemove didn't perform correctly on that image.
If you notice that a De-Clutter processed photo appears corrupted, broken, or visually distorted while other photos in your shoot processed normally, this is typically a rare processing issue with that specific image. Please contact our support team with your shoot ID, the affected photo filename, and a screenshot showing the issue. Our team will investigate and reprocess the affected image at no additional cost. In the meantime, you can download and use the original unedited version of that photo.
Make sure your Dropbox is set up like this example:
```
AutoHDR/ ← root folder, must be top-level in your Dropbox (do not nest)
123 Main Street/ ← your shoot folder, named for the property address
01-RAW-Photos/ ← upload your photos here
04-FINALS-Photos/ ← created automatically when editing finishes
```
AutoHDR must be a top-level folder in your Dropbox — do not place it inside any other folder. Everything inside AutoHDR is flexible: you can add layers between the root and your shoot folder (e.g., quarter name, date, photographer name, then property address).
Also make sure you've clicked 'Connect with Dropbox' at AutoHDR.com/account. After your last upload we'll wait 20 minutes before triggering (you can monitor status at AutoHDR.com/listings).
Video walkthrough: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcBaBmLwk7g
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_
If you upload new photos from the home page, that will create a new photo shoot. If you are using our Dropbox automation. If you upload new raw photos to the same raw photos folder as the rest of the photo shoot, the edited photos resulting from that will in fact go to the same photo shoot as all of the previous photos, both in the autoHDR website and in your Dropbox final images folder.
The Dropbox uploader will allow you to select as many files as you want. If you click the very top left box, it will select every single photo in the folder, so that you don't need to select them all one-by-one.
We need to be able to look at all of the contents of your Dropbox to see when you add new folders which are under the file structure that we automatically detect and edit. This is strictly used for the automatic editing, not for any other interaction with your Dropbox account.
Yes, if you're using the Dropbox automation, you can upload more raw images to the input folder, and they will be edited and added to the same photo shoot. If you'd like to add more photos to an existing listing on the website, scroll down to the bottom of the listing, and you can upload more photos in the very bottom square that has the plus icon.
Yes, you can create as many layers of folders and categorizations as you want for the Dropbox automation. There are just two things that need to be true:
Go to autohdr.com/account and scroll to the Dropbox section - it will show which Dropbox account is currently connected (the email address on file). If it's the wrong account, click Disconnect and reconnect with the correct Dropbox login.
Most Dropbox upload issues come down to one of three things:
If all three check out and it's still not processing, send your account email and shoot folder name to delivery@autohdr.com.
If you'd rather have someone walk through your full setup with you directly, you can book a call with our automation specialist here: https://calendly.com/d/cx89-zcv-zpw/book-autohdr-automation-setup
Step 1 - Connect Dropbox in AutoHDR
Go to autohdr.com/account and click Connect with Dropbox. This links your Dropbox account to AutoHDR.
Step 2 - Set up the exact folder structure
AutoHDR watches for a specific folder structure. It must be named exactly:
```
AutoHDR/ ← root folder, must be top-level in your Dropbox (do not nest)
[optional subfolders]/ ← e.g. Quarter > Date > Photographer Name
123 Main Street/ ← your shoot folder, named for the property address
01-RAW-Photos/ ← upload your input photos here (exact name, hyphens, capital P)
04-FINALS-Photos/ ← created automatically when editing completes
```
AutoHDR must be a top-level folder in your Dropbox — do not place it inside any other folder. Everything beneath it is flexible: you can add as many organizational layers as you want (e.g., Quarter Name > Date > Photographer Name > Property Address > 01-RAW-Photos). The two things that must be exact: AutoHDR at the top level, and 01-RAW-Photos as the input folder name.
What will NOT be processed:
01-RAW-Photos01-RAW-Photos (e.g. 01 RAW Photos, 01-raw-photos, RAW - all fail)Step 3 - Wait 20 minutes
After your last file uploads, AutoHDR waits 20 minutes before triggering processing (in case you're still uploading). Once triggered, edited photos appear in AutoHDR.com/listings and in a 04-FINALS-Photos folder in your Dropbox automatically.
Still not working? Go to autohdr.com/account, disconnect Dropbox, and reconnect - this clears most auth issues. If it still doesn't trigger after 20+ minutes with the correct folder structure, send your account email and shoot folder name to delivery@autohdr.com.
If you'd rather book a call to get your full workflow dialed in with our automation specialist: https://calendly.com/d/cx89-zcv-zpw/book-autohdr-automation-setup
Video walkthrough: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcBaBmLwk7g
The Aryeo integration is live. AutoHDR connects to Aryeo through Dropbox - your photos edit automatically and land back in your Dropbox, then you do a one-click Add from Dropbox import inside your Aryeo listing gallery to deliver them.
If you need help getting the integration connected, book a call with our automation specialist: https://calendly.com/d/cx89-zcv-zpw/book-autohdr-automation-setup
If you received fewer final edited images than you expected based on your raws, there are three things to check:
If you're uploading on the AutoHDR.com website, you can upload as many photos as you want, but they will all be under one photo shoot.
If you're talking about the Dropbox automation, you can put as many sub-folders as you want within the 01-RAW-Photos folder, however they will all still land in the same 04-FINALS-Photos folder back in your Dropbox, as well as all in the same listing in AutoHDR.com when viewing your listings.
On the AutoHDR.com home page you can select files from your computer storage or select files from a dropbox folder. If you want to choose files from dropbox, select the dropbox icon, then enter the folder your files are in. You can select them all at once by clicking the check mark box in the very top left of the folder. Once you confirm the selection - it can take a minute to begin the upload while dropbox sends the files to us - but it will eventually begin processing!
If you're talking about jobs in a Dropbox folder and it hasn't kicked off, go to your listings page on AutoHDR. We wait 20 minutes from your last upload in Dropbox to kick off the shoot. If you see the listing in your listings page on AutoHDR, then you'll know that the job has started processing. If you don't see it there after 15 minutes, there could be a bug.
Apologies for the inconvenience here. Sometimes with large files, slow Wi-Fi, or certain regions, there could be a slow or interrupted upload. For example, we've seen certain Wi-Fi providers actually throttle uploads to the storage provider we use because the geography is far away and they're trying to save money.
I know this can be frustrating, but we can help you work around it. Please let us know what type of connection you're using to upload your files. Also, if you send us a Google Drive or Dropbox folder containing those files, we can manually run them through for you. You can also use the Dropbox or Google Drive chooser on the upload box to try and upload them directly from the external platforms.
Feel free to send a human on our team a folder of these images, and we will upload it on your behalf. We'd love to know exactly how you're uploading the photos, though, so we can try and debug and prevent upload failures in the future that are related to our software.
The automated Dropbox integration is designed to pull and label the shoot with the same name as the folder that your raw images folder is contained within. For example, if you have a listing called 123 Main Street and in there you place your raw photos folder, that shoot would then be named 123 Main Street within AutoHDR. You can check that the parent folder of your raw photos folder is indeed named correctly. To verify it's working, make sure it's only one directory up.
The AI Re-Edit tool costs 1 credit per use. We have many free tools like AutoRemove for conducting removals that are required on many different photos in a single shoot.
Our average photo shoot processing time for a shoot with normal file sizes of around 40 total edited output photos is 15 minutes. It could be more or less depending on the file size you uploaded. That's a dramatic reduction, by the way, from our previous processing times, where we've cut it down more than in half while even improving quality! Anyways, if you have not received your shoot and it's an upload on AutoHDR.com within 15 minutes, it could mean that there was a bug or something went wrong where it failed. Our developers are always monitoring for failed shoots 24/7 to try and re-run them with a fix or a message to you letting you know why it failed. Either way, you will know.
The only situations where it would ever not run are:
If you're uploading through an integration such as the Dropbox automation or the Spiro integration, we will wait 20 minutes before kicking off your photo shoot to anticipate any more photos. Once it's been 20 minutes since your last photo upload, we will kick off the photo shoot. If you're using the Dropbox or the Spiro integration, add an additional 20 minutes to any of our quoted processing times.
Most Dropbox issues come down to one of three things - let's work through them:
/AutoHDR//01-RAW-Photos/ - the root folder must be named AutoHDR, and the input folder must be named exactly 01-RAW-Photos (hyphens, capital P). Any variation won't trigger processing.
If all three check out and still nothing after 20+ minutes, email delivery@autohdr.com with your account email and shoot folder name.
Video walkthrough: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcBaBmLwk7g
Yes - you can add as many folder layers as you want between the AutoHDR root and your address folder (e.g., by date, photographer, or market). AutoHDR only cares about two things:
AutoHDR (at the top level of your Dropbox, not nested inside anything else)01-RAW-PhotosEverything between those two anchors is flexible.
Yes - if you upload new raw photos to the same 01-RAW-Photos folder, AutoHDR will detect them and add the edited results to the same shoot (both in your listings and in the 04-FINALS-Photos Dropbox folder). The 20-minute wait applies again from your last upload.
Go to autohdr.com/account and scroll to the Dropbox section - it shows the email address of the currently connected account. If it's the wrong one, click Disconnect and reconnect with the correct Dropbox login.
AutoHDR needs broad Dropbox access to detect when you create a new 01-RAW-Photos folder and upload photos into it. Without that read access, we can't watch for new shoots arriving. We only use this to monitor the AutoHDR folder structure for new uploads - we don't access, read, or modify anything else in your Dropbox.
AutoHDR names the shoot after the address folder - the folder one level above 01-RAW-Photos. So if your structure is /AutoHDR/123 Main Street/01-RAW-Photos/, the shoot will be named 123 Main Street. Make sure that parent folder is named exactly what you want the listing called.
AutoHDR waits 20 minutes after your last detected upload before triggering processing. If photos were still uploading when that window closed (e.g., a slow connection, or files added in batches with a gap), the late-arriving files would have been missed.
To fix: upload the missing photos to the same 01-RAW-Photos folder - AutoHDR will detect the new additions and process them, adding the results to the existing listing.
Upload failures are usually caused by one of:
If you can't get uploads working, email delivery@autohdr.com with a Google Drive or Dropbox share link and we can manually run the photos through for you.
When processing completes, edited photos are automatically written to a 04-FINALS-Photos folder inside the same address folder in your Dropbox:
```
/AutoHDR/123 Main Street/
/01-RAW-Photos/ ← your inputs
/04-FINALS-Photos/ ← edited outputs, delivered automatically
```
Note: If you're using the Tonomo integration, Tonomo creates the folder structure — AutoHDR reads those paths from Tonomo's webhook and writes the finals back into them. If you're using Dropbox directly (without Tonomo), AutoHDR creates the 04-FINALS-Photos folder itself.
The photos also appear in your listings at autohdr.com/listings and you'll get an email notification. If the 04-FINALS-Photos folder isn't there, check autohdr.com/listings first - if the shoot shows as complete there, it may just be a Dropbox sync delay. If the shoot shows as failed, see the processing failure entries.
Yes — if you're a paid AutoHDR customer and need hands-on help getting your workflow, integrations, or tools set up, you can book a free automation setup call directly with our team here:
👉 https://calendly.com/d/cx89-zcv-zpw/book-autohdr-automation-setup
We'll walk you through everything — Dropbox, platform connections, folder structure, settings — whatever you need to get fully up and running.
Absolutely — paid customers can book a one-on-one automation setup call with our team. We'll help you configure your workflow, connect your integrations, and make sure everything is running smoothly.
Book here: https://calendly.com/d/cx89-zcv-zpw/book-autohdr-automation-setup
For paid customers, we offer direct setup support. Book a free automation setup call and our team will get you connected:
👉 https://calendly.com/d/cx89-zcv-zpw/book-autohdr-automation-setup
We cover all integrations — Dropbox, Spiro, Aryeo, Tonomo, HDPH, and more. Just grab a time and we'll handle it together.
The fastest way is to book an automation setup call with our team — it's free for paid customers, and we'll review your current setup and help you get the most out of AutoHDR:
👉 https://calendly.com/d/cx89-zcv-zpw/book-autohdr-automation-setup
You can also explore the full integration and automation guides at knowledge.autohdr.com/get-started.
If your Dropbox sync stopped working, a few things to check:
1. Folder structure exactly matches the required setup. Dropbox sync requires specific naming:
Note: AutoHDR detects new files approximately 20 minutes after your last file uploads — if it's been less than that, give it a few more minutes before troubleshooting further.
If anything's renamed, nested differently, or missing the exact 01-RAW-Photos naming, sync silently stops working. Fix the structure first.
2. Reconnect Dropbox in your account settings. Go to autohdr.com/account, find the Dropbox section, click Disconnect from Dropbox, then reconnect. This resolves most auth-level sync failures.
3. If both are correct and sync is still broken, that's a genuine issue on our end — send us your account email and we'll check what's happening.
To switch Dropbox accounts, disconnect the current connection and connect the new one:
Any shoots that synced through the old Dropbox account stay where they were sent. Only future syncs go through the new account.
Yes — AutoHDR integrates with Spiro for streamlined editing. Setup walkthroughs for all our integrations live at knowledge.autohdr.com/get-started — the Spiro section has step-by-step instructions for connecting your accounts and configuring sync. Once connected, shoots flow through automatically.
AutoHDR doesn't push directly to MLS. What we do is integrate with real estate platforms (Spiro, HD Photo Hub, Aryeo, Tonomo), and from those platforms you can submit to your MLS using the platform's own MLS workflow.
For Aryeo specifically, we now have a direct native integration — enable it in Aryeo under Admin → App Store → AutoHDR. For other platform integrations, setup walkthroughs are at knowledge.autohdr.com/get-started.
If you don't use one of those platforms, downloading from your AutoHDR gallery and uploading manually to your MLS is the alternative.
Yes — AutoHDR integrates with Tonomo, and Dropbox is the bridge between them. Here's how the full flow works:
There's no separate upload step into AutoHDR or Tonomo directly — everything flows through Dropbox. The webhook is just how AutoHDR knows which folders to watch.
Setup walkthrough is at knowledge.autohdr.com/tonomo — it covers connecting your accounts. Once it's set up, the whole flow runs automatically.
You can upload directly from Google Drive through the AutoHDR website — when you go to start a new upload, there's an option to pull files from Drive without downloading them to your computer first. Just select your photos from Drive and they'll upload straight into AutoHDR.
Note: there's no full automation with Google Drive the way Dropbox works. Dropbox has a sync integration where shoots can flow through automatically. With Google Drive, you initiate each upload manually from the site — it just saves you the step of downloading to your computer first.
Yes — we have an API with full functionality available. It's for teams building custom workflows or embedding AutoHDR into their own platform. Standard integrations (Spiro, Tonomo, Aryeo, HDPH, Dropbox) connect through your account settings and don't require it.
To get an API key, you'll need an AutoHDR account on a Basic monthly plan or above. Send us a message in chat and our team will get you set up with a key and the documentation.
Yes — AutoHDR has a direct native integration with Aryeo. You can set it up in about 60 seconds and submit, edit, and deliver photos without leaving Aryeo.
To enable it: go to Admin → App Store → AutoHDR in Aryeo and click Enable. Once connected, open any listing, click AutoHDR, pick your editing models, upload, and deliver — all from inside Aryeo.
The Aryeo integration is fully native — you submit, edit, and deliver without leaving Aryeo. Here's the flow:
No Dropbox required. The entire workflow lives inside Aryeo.
Setup takes about 60 seconds and happens entirely inside Aryeo:
Once enabled, open any listing in Aryeo, click the AutoHDR button, pick your editing models, upload your photos, and deliver — all without leaving Aryeo. No Dropbox connection or separate account setup required.